3/12/2017

Wild Boar Ragù

Sharon and I were driving through Tuscany years ago and we stopped at a remote road-side Autogrill. The parking lot was empty, but we were there early before Noon. A matron came out to greet us and I asked what might be ready. She replied, 'Ragù di cinghiale e Pappardelle'. Inside she brought out two bowls of steaming noodles, walked over to a large earthen pot hanging in a huge fireplace and spooned on the ragù. Then she walked over to a side table and added a generous amount of Parmesan and pepper, added a hunk of bread and served us. OMG! I put this recipe together to try and emulate that dish long ago. It's close...

1 pound wild boar sausage (Sprouts)
2 strips smoked natural bacon, diced
1 tablespoon demi glaze 
2 cups robust red wine (Chianti) 
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1/2 teaspoon tarragon
2 cups diced rainbow chard stalks 
1 yellow onion, sliced
4 garlic cloves, peeled
4 cups tomato sauce (preferably home made)
1 teaspoon apple vinegar 
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 cups Rainbow Chard leaves, chopped
1 hand full of Broccolini
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to your taste
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 pound Pappardelle
  1. In a nonstick fry pan sauté the diced bacon until just crisp. Add the shredded wild boar sausage and cook over medium heat until just cooked. Add the Demi glaze, red wine, mustard seeds, Aleppo pepper, and tarragon. Simmer until the liquid is reduced by half.
  2. While the wild boar reduces, in a cast iron pan sauté the onions and chard stalks in olive oil until softened. Add the tomato sauce, garlic cloves, vinegar, lemon juice, and fennel seeds. Add the knob of butter and simmer at medium heat.
  3. Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the chard and broccolini for a couple of minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup of the hot water. Drain and add the greens and the reserved water to the sauce.
  4. Add the wild boar sauté to the sauce and mix. Simmer for at least 30 minutes. Salt and pepper to your taste. The sauce should be thick and coat a spoon.
  5. While your ragù simmers, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the Pappardelle until al dente. 
Serve a bowl of Pappardelle with the ragù spooned on top. Grate on Parmigiano-Reggiano to your taste and a generous amount of pepper. Serve with fresh bread (to sop up the sauce) and the red wine you used with the wild boar. A simple salad of greens would be nice. The ragù will be better the next day, and the next day, and the next...

Richard Wottrich