Just the Way Hemingway Cooked His Trout (but in a fry pan on a fire and absent the smoker)

Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Trout With Tarragon

Saveur magazine, BBQ Nations, issue 139

12 slices bacon

2 whole rainbow trout (about 1 lb. each), cleaned

2 tbsp. olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

6 sprigs tarragon

1. Heat oven to 375°. Place bacon on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until half-cooked, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool. Brush inside and outside of each trout with 1 tbsp. oil, season with salt and pepper, and stuff with 3 sprigs tarragon each; set aside. Arrange 6 bacon slices, overlapping slightly, on a cutting board parallel to you. Place I trout over middle of bacon perpendicular to you, and wrap trout in bacon, arranging it seam side down on the rack of a stove-top smoker (see link for instructions). Repeat with remaining bacon and trout.

2. Prepare stove-top smoker according to manufacturer's instructions, using apple or pecan wood shavings (see Fuel and Flavor); place rack with trout inside. Smoke until fish is cooked through, about 15 minutes. Heat broiler to high and arrange a rack 4″ from broiler element. Transfer trout on smoker rack to a baking sheet and place under broiler; cook until bacon is crisp, about 2 minutes.

Zucchini Vichyssoise

                This delicious cold soup is adapted from Ina Garten’s “Barefoot in Paris” (2004). To build this soup I used organic zucchini, potatoes, spring onions, and banana peppers from the organic farmers market in Evanston, IL, and fresh herbs from my herb garden.

                1              tablespoon unsalted butter

                1              tablespoon olive oil

    4              white skinned potatoes, skins on, chopped

                6              small zucchini, trimmed, skins on, chopped

                2              white spring onions, chopped

                1              banana pepper, cored, seeded and chopped

                2              tablespoons fresh oregano, minced

                6              cups water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock as you wish

                1              cup cream

                1              tablespoon chives, chopped for garnish

                1              teaspoon salt

    1              teaspoon freshly ground pepper to taste

    1              teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Heat the butter and oil in a large stockpot; add the onions and banana pepper and sauté over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, zucchini, vegetable stock, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to cool and then pass the mixture through a food mill, or mix in batches in a blender. Add the cream and season to taste.

You can serve this either hot or cold, but I prefer serving it as a vichyssoise with a splash of fresh lemon juice and scattering of chives and freshly ground black pepper just before serving.

Steamed Golden Beets, Fresh Garlic & Cherry Tomatoes

Serves 4

There are those who do not love beets and I plead guilty. But over time I have found certain recipes that bring out the earthy tones of beets in a pleasing way. This dish is entirely dependent upon the quality of its ingredients – I recommend a visit to a local farmers market for organic vegetables as a prerequisite.

4-6   medium or small golden beets, cleaned and sliced thinly

2      heads of fresh garlic, thinly sliced

12    red cherry tomatoes cut in half

12    yellow cherry tomatoes cut in half

1      tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1      tablespoon butter

1      teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice

        Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preparation:   Clean and thinly slice the golden beets and garlic. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Prepare a bamboo steaming basket or similar steamer and put the beet and garlic tops in the water along with a lemon peel. Steam the beets, garlic and tomatoes for about five minutes, or just until the beets are still crunchy. Put the vegetables into a mixing bowl and combine with the butter, dill, sea salt and ground pepper. Toss briefly and serve.

Presentation: I presented this dish in a constructed salad of fresh spinach served with a poached egg and prosciutto, black olives and shavings of Spanish Manchego cheese with a vinaigrette dressing.

Richard Wottrich 

Slow Roasted Glazed Salmon

Slow Roasted Glazed Salmon

Serves 4

                Over the years I have cooked Salmon every which way – grilled, slow roasted, sashimi, blackened, poached, steamed, cold cured – you name it.  But my two favorites are slow roasted Salmon and glazed Salmon. The problem combining the two is how to achieve a perfect crunchy glaze without drying out the top layer of the fish. This recipe perfectly solves this riddle and produces an amazing Slow Roasted Glazed Salmon dish. [Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated]

                4              center-cut Salmon fillets of equal thickness (6 to 8 ounces each)

                ½             teaspoon kosher salt

                ¼             teaspoon corn starch

                                Ground black pepper

                1              teaspoon vegetable oil       teaspoons fleur de sel

                1              recipe glaze (see following recipes)

               

Adjust your oven rack to the middle and heat to 325 degrees. Combine the brown sugar, salt, and cornstarch in a small bowl. Pat the Salmon dry with paper towels and make sure all scales and bones are removed. Season with ground pepper. Sprinkle the brown sugar mixture evenly over the flesh side of each filet and rub to evenly distribute.

Heat oil in a 12-icnh cast iron fry pan or oven safe nonstick skillet over medium high heat until just smoking. Place the Salmon, flesh side down, in the pan and cook until well browned – 1 minute. The brown sugar will form a perfect crunchy glaze and the corn starch will make it adhere to the surface and “grab” the glaze. Using tongs carefully flip the Salmon and cook on the skin side another 1 minute.

Remove the skillet from the heat and spoon the glaze over the flesh side of each fillet. Use a butter knife to smooth the glaze to a thin layer – too thick is too much. Put the skillet in the heated oven and roast until you achieve the desired consistency. I like to Salmon just done, melt in your mouth – which for a 1-inch-thick filet takes about seven minutes.

For the glaze whisk ingredients in a small pan. Bring to a quick boil and then simmer until thickened – about 1-3 minutes.

Soy Mustard Glaze

                3              tablespoons light brown sugar

                2              tablespoons soy sauce

                2              tablespoons mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)

                1              tablespoon sherry vinegar

                1              tablespoon whole grain mustard

                1              tablespoon water

                1              teaspoon cornstarch

                                Dash of red pepper flakes to your taste

Pomegranate-Balsamic Glaze

                3              tablespoons light brown sugar

                3              tablespoons pomegranate juice

                2              tablespoons balsamic vinegar

                1              tablespoon whole grain mustard

                1              teaspoon cornstarch

                                Dash of red pepper flakes to your taste

               

Asian Barbeque Glaze

                2              tablespoons ketchup

                2              tablespoons hoisin sauce (Chinese dipping sauce)

                2              tablespoons rice vinegar

                2              tablespoon light brown sugar

    1                            tablespoon soy sauce

    1              tablespoon toasted sesame oil

                2              teaspoons Asian chili-garlic sauce

                1              teaspoon grated fresh ginger

Orange Miso Glaze

               

                ¼             cup juice + 1 teaspoon finely grated zest from two oranges

                2              tablespoons white miso

                1              tablespoon light brown sugar

                1              tablespoon rice vinegar

                1              tablespoon whole grain mustard

                ¾             teaspoon cornstarch

                                Pinch of cayenne pepper

Richard Wottrich

The Myth of Killer Mercury
May 25th, 2011 - The Wall Street Journal

Facts are stubborn things - http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703421204576329420414284558.html?KEYWORDS=mercury

New Food Site - Gilt Taste


http://www.gilttaste.com/

China gives press more freedom - for food safety

May 15, 2011, Chicago USA

China has been coping with enormous food chain safety issues that have caused an historic shift in freedom of the press. In short, Chinese leaders are relaxing press restraints on social criticism to encourage the uncovering of food chain fraud.

Go to: http://www.blueridgenow.com/article/20110515/API/1105150565

rlw

 

Panko Sesame Seed-crusted Halibut

Serves 4 as a main course

Halibut is a flatfish, genus Hippoglossus, from the family of the right-eye flounders (Pleuronectidae). Other flatfish are also called halibut. The name is derived from haly (holy) and butt (flat fish), for its popularity on Catholic holy days. Halibut live in both the North Pacific and the North Atlantic oceans.

According to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, most Atlantic flatfish such as halibut and sole have been overfished and are ranked "Avoid." One exception is summer flounder, a species that’s recovering and is a “Good Alternative.” This should be labeled “Pacific Halibut” or “Alaskan Halibut.”

4      6-ounce Halibut filets, skinless

2      eggs, beaten

1           cup flour

3            tablespoons Herbs de Provence (oregano, thyme, savory or as you wish)

2           cups Panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

3      tablespoons sesame seeds

        Salt and freshly ground pepper

2            tablespoons butter

4      tablespoons olive oil

1      heavy cast iron fry pan

Preparation:   Heat your oven to 375 degrees. Prepare three large shallow bowls. In the first put two beaten eggs. In the second mix the flour, Herbs de Provence, salt and pepper. In the third mix the Panko and sesame seeds. Take four Halibut filets and pat them dry. Take each filet and coat with the eggs, then dredge in the flour mixture, finally roll in the Panko and sesame seeds until evenly coated. Set aside on a large dish for five minutes. Put the olive oil and butter into the cast iron pan and bring to very high heat (just smoking). Place the four filets in the pan and cook two to three minutes a side. When you flip them they should be golden brown. Place the fish in the pan in the oven to finish. Depending upon the thickness of the filets (one half to one inch) this should take between three and five minutes. Remove the sizzling filets from the oven and serve immediately.

This fantastic nutty crusted Halibut can quite literally be paired with anything. I presented the Halibut with an English pea and white button mushroom risotto and a Pinot gris.

Pork Sausages, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany (Photo:RLW)

Rillettes

             Rillettes are an ancient preparation that relies on fat content to preserve and flavor. Similar to pâté, rillettes are usually made with pork. The meat is cubed or chopped, salted heavily and cooked slowly in fat until it is tender enough to be easily shredded, and then cooled with enough of the fat to form a paste. In this form it will keep for up to a month. Rillettes are usually spread on bread or toast and served at room temperature.

             Rillettes are also made with other meats: goose, duck, chicken, game birds, rabbit, and sometimes with fish such as anchovies, tuna or salmon.

             I think it important to consider why certain religions such as Judaism and Islam forbid the eating of pork. Through the centuries religions have codified dietary constraints to protect the health of their supplicants. Prior to refrigeration meat went bad quite quickly in warmer climates. Butchery determined over time that the bleeding of the slaughtered animal removes a possible source of contamination of the meat and would aid in the cooling of the carcass. 
           The anatomy of a pig however makes this practice difficult if not impossible. Pork is also a meat that is difficult to determine whether it has gone bad, hence over time Islam and Judaism forbad eating meat of the “cloven footed.”

         Does this prohibition make sense in the modern world of refrigeration and safe food preparation? That alas is a personal decision.

                                          2                 pounds pork belly, cut into 2-inch cubes

                                          1                 pound pork shoulder, cut into 2-icnh cubes

                                          4                 cups water

                                          1                 bouquet garni [1]

                                          1                 tablespoon salt

                                                             pinch of black pepper

           1                             pound pork fat, cut into thin slices

Put the pork belly and shoulder in a heavy bottomed pot. Add the water and bouquet garni and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally. After 6 hours, stir in the salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Discard the bouquet garni.

Once the meat is cool enough to handle, transfer to a mixing bowl and, using a fork, shred the meat. Preserve its natural fibers – do not turn it into mush.

Divide the mixture into several small containers. Top each portion with a slice or two of pork fat to completely cover it. Fold the fat gently into each container and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let these sit in the refrigerator for three days.

Scoop out the rillettes and shape as you like (with a metal ring or cookie form). Garnish with toasted baguette slices and Cornichons. Be generous with ground pepper. Properly covered, rillettes will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.

Enjoy!

Richard Wottrich

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[1] Bouquet Garni – 1 sprig of flat parsley, 2 sprigs of fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf, tied together with storing and used as a flavoring. Tying the bundle in cheesecloth makes it easier to retrieve from the pot.

Beef Tartare with Curry Vinaigrette

                This unusual take on Steak Tartare is courtesy of Philippe Conticini, who was the chef and pastry chef for Petrossian Boutique and Café in both New York City and Paris. More recently he has opened La Pâtisserie des Rêves at 93, rue du Bac, Paris. The unexpected here is the addition of honey, which is a stroke of genius.           

                1              pound beef filet, finely chopped

                5              tablespoons sesame seeds

                2              tablespoons plus ½ cup hazelnut oil

                2              teaspoons balsamic vinegar

                2              teaspoons fleur de sel

                2              tablespoons curry powder

                2              tablespoons honey

                3              tablespoons lemon juice

                2              tablespoons of caviar

                                finely crushed hazelnuts

In a bowl combine the beef, 2 tablespoons of sesame seeds, 2 tablespoons hazelnut oil, balsamic vinegar, and 1 teaspoon fleur de sel. Mix well.

Whisk together the curry powder, honey, lemon juice, remaining 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, remaining 1/2 cup hazelnut oil, and 1 tablespoon caviar.

Fill 24 tablespoons halfway with beef tartare. Sprinkle with curry vinaigrette, remaining 1 teaspoon fleur de sel, and crushed hazelnuts. Dab with remaining caviar. Arrange on a platter.

World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards Draw Star Chefs to London: Richard Vines

Bloomberg, April 15, 2011

Rue Poncelet Market, Paris (Photo:RLW)

Antioxidant Bombs

The super antioxidant foods such as berries, tomatoes, carrots, broccoli and grapes carry most of their punch in the skins - that's why we benefit because we eat their skins. But the same things are true of oranges, lemons, limes, tangerines, bananas and so on. Their skins are loaded with antioxidants. Antioxidants are always closest to the sun or earth, defending the plant against attack.

Try making an antioxidant bomb Smoothie by throwing whole fruit into the blender in chunks - cleaned of course and stems removed, but throw in the entire banana and orange and so on. The results are truly delicious and you can almost feel the health benefits when you drink one.

Try it - You’ll be surprised.

1/4 - orange, skin and all

1/2 - banana, peel and all

1/2 – cup blueberries

1/2 – cup chopped strawberries

1    - thin slice lemon, skin and all

1    - thin slice of lime, skin and all

2    - cups fruit juice (I use Sonda juices such as Peach & Carrot, or Pineapple & Carrot)

Blend at high speed until smooth, pour and enjoy!

Richard Wottrich

The New York Times, March 7th, 2011

Thomas Keller will join Julia Child and Alice Waters as the only Americans in the food field to be named Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor. He is being granted the distinction for his work in promoting French cuisine in America.

Tuscany near Siena (Photo:RLW)

Pasta alla Carbonara

Sizzling bacon, wine, cream, eggs, black pepper and pasta – we’re in heaven! Pasta alla Carbonara was perhaps first brought home to America by our soldiers fighting in Italy in WWII. Many know it as a typical Roman dish, but the name purportedly comes from the Appenine mountains of Abruzzo by woodcutters who made charcoal for fuel. Literally, “in the manner of the coal miners” (Carbonara and carbone, the Italian word for coal, both derive from the Latin word carbo.), its preparation in Italy creates “just enough” sauce. 

4 to 6 servings

Ingredients

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces pancetta or slab bacon, diced

1 teaspoon diced garlic

2 tablespoons white wine

1/2 cup cream

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as you wish

1 pound fresh linguine, spaghetti, or even penne as you wish (fresh is best)

1 cup grated Pecorino Romano

2 eggs, separated

   red pepper flakes to your tatse (optional)

Directions

Put the water in a large pasta pot, add salt, and bring it to a boil over medium heat.

Add the oil and pancetta to a large sauté pan over low heat. Cook the pancetta until crisp, being careful not to burn it, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 5 seconds. Add the wine, cream and black pepper. Cook until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Drop the fresh pasta into water and stir to separate strands. When pasta is just undercooked remove it from the water and add it to the pan with the sauce. Gently stir for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, add 1/2 the cheese and the egg white and stir, being careful not to break the noodles. Add the egg yolk and lightly toss. Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl or platter and garnish with the remaining cheese. Enjoy.

Richard Wottrich

The Odd Couple


Bourdain and Ripert at Symphony Hall - Boston

America's Largest Cookbook Collection: New York University's Fales Library Food Studies Collection

Fried Rice

Growing up Chinese fried rice has always been a comfort food for me. Fried rice is considered a snack food by the Chinese and it is never served as a main course, but Americans feel differently. Making it yourself at home is not difficult if you follow a few basic techniques. First of all you do need a wok and always use your largest stove burner for high heat. Second, you must use cold cooked rice, so plan ahead. Third, a 50/50 blend of white and brown rice works the best. Rinse the rice first and allow it to sit in a colander for 30 minutes prior to cooking. Fourth, cook whatever fish, meat or poultry you want to add to the dish first and then thinly slice it. And finally it is best to first parboil all the vegetables you plan on adding in a big pot of salted boiling water. As soon as they are just flash boiled, turn off the heat and hold until ready to drain and add to the stir fry. Variations are endless and actual preparation time is quick – so enjoy.

Whisk briskly:

4      eggs

½     teaspoon of salt

            Heat your wok over medium heat until it evaporates a drop of water on contact. Pour in and tilt the wok to coat:                       

1      tablespoon of vegetable oil (canola)

            Heat until very hot. Add the eggs all at once and as they bubble around the edges, push them to the center, tilting the wok to cook the eggs evenly. Break the cooked eggs into clumps. When the eggs are set remove them to a bowl. Pour into the hot wok and heat until hot:

                        2      tablespoons vegetable oil

            Add to the wok:

                        1     cup thin sliced spring onions or scallions, equal parts green and white

Toss for one minute and then add all together:

            4     cups cold cooked rice

1         teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

Cook the rice for three minutes, tossing all the time to coat all rice grains with the hot oil. Then add and toss:

                Cooked sliced fish, meat or poultry as you wish

                Par-boiled thinly sliced vegetables (carrots, celery, broccoli, cauliflower,      zucchini, French beans, as you wish)

                Button mushrooms or sliced shitake mushrooms

                1    small can drained bamboo shoots

                1    small can drained water chestnuts

Add soy sauce and drizzle with sesame oil and a splash of rice wine or rice vinegar to your taste. Toss the fried rice to mix thoroughly and serve immediately.