Apple and Fig Melba
Serves 6

What is a Melba? The familiar foods named for Helen Porter Mitchell are not recognizable unless one knows that her stage name was Dame Nellie Melba. This famous opera singer of the late 19th and early 20th century, who took her last name from her native city of Melbourne, inspired others to honor her by naming “soaps and sauces, ribbons and ruffles” after her. The best known of these honors are Melba toast and Peach Melba.

Auguste Escoffier, the famous chef, is thought to have had a hand in both. Melba toast is said to be derived from the crisp toast that was part of Dame Melba's diet during the year 1897, a year in which she was very ill. The hotel proprietor César Ritz supposedly named it in a conversation with Escoffier. Pêche Melba was said to have been created by Escoffier for an 1892 party honoring the singer at the Savoy Hotel in London, although neither Escoffier nor Melba agreed with this version of events. Peach Melba is first recorded in English in 1905 (in the form Pêches à la Melba) and Melba toast in 1925. This is my take on the old classic.

4 crisp tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced
18 fresh Black Mission figs, trimmed and sliced in half
2 cups brown sugar
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons sour cherry syrup
2 tablespoons of Pastis (anise flavored liquor)
pinch of salt
premium vanilla ice cream
whipped cream (optional)

Preparation: 1. In two non-reactive bowls toss the apple and fig slices separately with lemon juice and reserve. 2. In a large non-stick sauté pan melt the butter and brown sugar until just bubbling. 3. Add the apples and sauté for 15 minutes or until just al dente. 4. Add the figs, sour cherry syrup and the Pastis. Carefully flambé the Pastis until the alcohol has burned away.

Presentation: Put 6 scoops of vanilla ice cream in 6 parfait glasses. Add a large spoonful of the apple and fig mixture, another scoop of ice cream and top them off with a final spoonful of the apples and figs. Add whipped cream on top as you wish.

Richard L. Wottrich

Spring Potato Egg Salad

The ubiquitous potato salad of 4th of July picnics and myriad church dinners casts a pall over the genre, broken only by the occasional German potato salad interloper. Bacon intrudes everywhere. It is a pity as potatoes can carry almost any seasoning and in salads they deserve more attention. This spring version carries a tart and light taste suited well with fresh baked bread, white wine and cool afternoon lunches.

2 Russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and diced to ½-inch cubes
3 hardboiled eggs, shelled and sliced
2 leeks, white portions only, cleaned and chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
1 sweet red pepper, diced
4 small Gherkin dill pickles, chopped
½ cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
3 tablespoons plain or vanilla yogurt, as you like
2 tablespoons brown or Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon prepared mayonnaise
1 teaspoon apple vinegar
½ teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper to your taste
chives, chopped, as garnish

Preparation: 1. Boil the cubed potatoes in salted water until just cooked – still firm. 2. Add all of the ingredients in a large bowl and toss lightly. Taste and season to your preference. (The salad can be prepared one day ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate.)

Presentation: Serve on a bed of Bibb lettuce. Sprinkle chopped chives on top and add a fresh squeeze of lemon juice.

Richard Wottrich

Vegas Wedding Soup
Serves 6-8

This quick recipe called Vegas Wedding Soup was given to us by good friend Foote and I prepared it for Sharon’s 62nd birthday party this very evening.

It is generally agreed that Italian wedding soup (originally known as Minestra Maritata or Pignato Grasso) has nothing to do with wedding ceremonies. The maritata (marriage) is instead between vegetables, and depending upon the region, sometimes pork (meatballs) and vegetables, in a soup. This is somewhat similar to the Italian term soffritto, which is the foundation to creating the succeeding layers of flavor in a risotto: onion and sometimes garlic sautéed in either butter or olive oil. Minestra Maritata is thought to be based upon ancient Roman soup traditions.

Soup has long been credited for nourishing the infirm and keeping hungry bellies full. The first modern public restaurants [18th century Paris, after The French Revolution (1789-1799) when the nobility were guillotined, their chefs were out of work] were places where soup was served to restore (from the French verb "restaurer") the patron's health.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion peeled and chopped
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried Italian seasonings
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon salt or to taste
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 quarts chicken stock or as needed
18 or more frozen Italian meatballs
1 large package of frozen mixed vegetables
1 cup dried pasta – small shells or as you wish
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 bag arugala, spinach or chopped kale as you prefer
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ cup grated parmesan or Romano cheese

Preparation: 1. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large stockpot. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until softened; about 3 minutes. 2. Stir in the Italian seasonings, fennel seeds, salt, red pepper flakes and ground pepper and sauté for 30 seconds. 3. Pour in the broth and bring to a quick boil. 4. Add the meatballs, vegetables, pasta and vinegar to the stockpot and simmer until the pasta is done; about 10 minutes. 5. Stir in the greens. 6. Add the grated cheese to the soup, or serve on the side, or both. Serve with crisp bread.

Richard Wottrich

Swedish Meat Balls
Serves 6-8

According to Mathistorisk Uppslagsbok by Jan-Ojvind Swahn, the Swedish word for meatball (k”ttbulle) first appeared in (Swedish) print in Cajsa Warg's 1754 cookbook. Swahn points out that the meat balls could not have been a common food, at least not for common people, until the meat grinder made the preparation simple. Swedish meat balls, smaller in size that those of Italy or Germany, are traditionally served with cream gravy and lingonberry preserves.

Sharon’s mom made a version of this Swedish meat balls recipe for years, albeit her delicious meatballs were very, very small. Sharon and I started this tradition up again for Christmas Eve 2006. The precise size of the meat ball is of course up to you, but as you should know, Scandinavians do not call attention to themselves.

Meatballs
2 eggs ½ cup mashed potatoes
2 cups fine dry bread crumbs
3 tablespoons minced onions
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¾ teaspoon allspice
¾ teaspoon grated nutmeg
¼ ground cloves
¼ teaspoon powdered ginger
1 pound ground round beef
½ pound lean ground pork
3 tablespoons butter or more

Sauce
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Dash of hot red pepper sauce
1 cup beef stock
1 cup of cream, half-and-half, or sour cream as you wish

Preparation: 1. Beat one of the eggs in a large bowl. Add the mashed potatoes, ½ cup of the bread crumbs, the onions, and all the seasonings; combine well. 2. Place the meats in a food processor bowl and pulse a few times until the meat looks smooth. 3. Transfer the meat to the mixing bowl and mix well with the egg, potatoes and seasonings mixture. 4. Shape your meatballs to no more than 1 inch in diameter. 5. In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg and pour into a pie pan. 6. Pour the remaining bread crumbs into another pie pan. 6. Roll the balls first in the egg, then lightly in the bread crumbs. 7. In a 10-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat; add the meat balls in a single layer and brown them on all sides, about 8 to 10 minutes a batch, turning them with tongs. Drain on paper towels while preparing the sauce. To the drippings in the skillet, add the flour and seasonings. Heat and serve until bubbles appear, then add the stock and cream, half-and-half or sour cream. Whisk until smooth – the sauce will be a bit thin (unless you use sour cream). Return to the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens.

Serve with Swedish pancakes and lingonberry preserves. A small glass of Aquavit couldn’t hurt…

Richard Wottrich