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| Pork Sausages, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany (Photo:RLW) |
Rillettes
Rillettes are an ancient preparation that relies on fat content to preserve and flavor. Similar to pâté, rillettes are usually made with pork. The meat is cubed or chopped, salted heavily and cooked slowly in fat until it is tender enough to be easily shredded, and then cooled with enough of the fat to form a paste. In this form it will keep for up to a month. Rillettes are usually spread on bread or toast and served at room temperature.
Rillettes are also made with other meats: goose, duck, chicken, game birds, rabbit, and sometimes with fish such as anchovies, tuna or salmon.
I think it important to consider why certain religions such as Judaism and Islam forbid the eating of pork. Through the centuries religions have codified dietary constraints to protect the health of their supplicants. Prior to refrigeration meat went bad quite quickly in warmer climates. Butchery determined over time that the bleeding of the slaughtered animal removes a possible source of contamination of the meat and would aid in the cooling of the carcass.
The anatomy of a pig however makes this practice difficult if not impossible. Pork is also a meat that is difficult to determine whether it has gone bad, hence over time Islam and Judaism forbad eating meat of the “cloven footed.”
The anatomy of a pig however makes this practice difficult if not impossible. Pork is also a meat that is difficult to determine whether it has gone bad, hence over time Islam and Judaism forbad eating meat of the “cloven footed.”
Does this prohibition make sense in the modern world of refrigeration and safe food preparation? That alas is a personal decision.
2 pounds pork belly, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 pound pork shoulder, cut into 2-icnh cubes
4 cups water
1 bouquet garni [1]
1 tablespoon salt
pinch of black pepper
1 pound pork fat, cut into thin slices
Put the pork belly and shoulder in a heavy bottomed pot. Add the water and bouquet garni and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally. After 6 hours, stir in the salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Discard the bouquet garni.
Once the meat is cool enough to handle, transfer to a mixing bowl and, using a fork, shred the meat. Preserve its natural fibers – do not turn it into mush.
Divide the mixture into several small containers. Top each portion with a slice or two of pork fat to completely cover it. Fold the fat gently into each container and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let these sit in the refrigerator for three days.
Scoop out the rillettes and shape as you like (with a metal ring or cookie form). Garnish with toasted baguette slices and Cornichons. Be generous with ground pepper. Properly covered, rillettes will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.
Enjoy!
Richard Wottrich
[1] Bouquet Garni – 1 sprig of flat parsley, 2 sprigs of fresh thyme, and 1 bay leaf, tied together with storing and used as a flavoring. Tying the bundle in cheesecloth makes it easier to retrieve from the pot.
