The New York Times International - January 18, 2011

North African Seasoning For Top French Kitchens


Alain Ducasse, chef and patron of a world class restaurant empire, has reached out to help 15 North African women, born in the Paris urban neighborhoods, to become chefs.


Richard Wottrich

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts, Shallots and Water Chestnuts

                The Brussels sprout is a cultivar group of wild cabbage grown for its small, leafy green buds. Forerunners to modern Brussels sprouts were likely cultivated in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts as we now know them were grown possibly as early as the 13th century in what is now Belgium. Production of Brussels sprouts in the United States began around 1800, when French settlers brought them to Louisiana.

                Brussels sprouts, as with broccoli and other brassicas, contains sulforaphane, a chemical believed to have potent anti-cancer properties. Although boiling reduces the level of the anti-cancer compounds, steaming, microwaving, and stir frying does not result in significant loss. Brussels sprouts and other brassicas are also a source of indole-3-carbinol, a chemical which boosts DNA repair in cells and appears to block the growth of cancer cells.

                1              pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise

                2              small shallots, trimmed, peeled and sliced

                1              can sliced water chestnuts, drained

                2              tablespoons peanut oil

                1              tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar 

                2              tablespoons sherry vinegar

                1/2           juice from one half orange

                                Kosher salt to taste

                                Ground white pepper to taste

Preparation: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon of sherry vinegar. Blanch the Brussels sprouts for four minutes until they turn bright green and are just tender. Drain and shock briefly with cold water to arrest cooking. In a fry pan heat the peanut oil and sauté the shallots for three minutes. Add the water chestnuts and sauté until they just start to brown. Deglaze the pan with the remaining sherry vinegar and orange juice for one minute. Add the Brussels Sprouts and seasoned rice vinegar and sauté until hot, about two minutes.

Presentation: Serve immediately with snowy white rice and another Chinese dish of your choice. We served this with Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Meatballs.

Paris Market

Oeufs Cocette Aux Champignons

(Coddled Eggs With Mushrooms)

Serves 4

                This recipe is from Frédéric Thevenet at Restaurant Aux Lyonnais (opened 1890) in Paris. Upon returning from Paris this past late October, I have been experimenting with bistro dishes because – well because it represents the best of home cooking. The first bistro owners were not professionally trained chefs, but rather they cooked plats ménager (housewife’s dishes). This is such a dish.

                ¾             cup good olive oil

                4              cloves garlic

                4              tablespoons unsalted butter

                8              ounces spinach, stemmed

                                Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

                8              ounces of mushrooms as you like, quartered

                ½             cup heavy cream

                4              eggs

                1              baguette, cut on diagonal into ½-inch slices and toasted

Preparation: 

Make a garlic confit: Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add two cloves of garlic and cook stirring occasionally, until garlic is tender, 10-15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to cutting board; let cool. Thinly slice the garlic confit lengthwise. (Reserve the olive oil for another use)

Poke one clove of garlic with the tines of a fork several times; set aside. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium heat until foamy. Add the spinach and cook, stirring occasionally with the fork used to poke the garlic (to perfume the spinach), until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the spinach to a clean tea towel and wipe out the skillet. Gather the ends of the towel and twist to squeeze out excess liquid. Set spinach aside.

Melt remaining butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining garlic clove and the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the heavy cream and cook 5 minutes more. Remove pan from the heat, cover, and let the mushrooms steep for 15 minutes.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Divide the spinach and mushroom mixture equally in four 6-ounce ramekins. Add reserved slices of garlic confit. Crack 1 egg into each ramekin. Transfer ramekins to a shallow baking pan and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and transfer to the oven. Cook until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny, about 10-15 minutes depending upon your oven.

Serve with toasted baguettes and salt and pepper the eggs to taste.