1/30/2010

Perfect Bolognese Ragù
(Soupflower photography)

This traditional Italian meat sauce is the subject of endless arguments regarding its “correct” preparation. Registered in 1982 by the Bolognese delegation of Accademia Italiana della Cucina, the “secret” of Bolognese is confined to the ingredients of beef, pancetta, onions, carrots, celery, tomato paste, meat broth, white wine, and milk or cream. The dish is based on the traditional use both butter and olive oil for cooking the Soffritto of small amounts of celery, carrot and onion.

No matter how you make it the key ingredient is patience, with a long slow simmer of five to six hours. This allows the modern American cook to substitute the crock pot at the appropriate moment, work all day, and return to the most fragrant of aromas. The people of Bologna traditionally serve their famous ragù with freshly made tagliatelle (tagliatelle alla bolognese) and their traditionally green lasagna. But any pasta will do. I adapted this version from a Williams Sonoma recipe. Enjoy!

Ingredients

2 tbs. olive oil
1 ¼ lbs. ground Bison
1 ¼ lbs. ground pork shoulder
kosher salt and ground pepper to taste
4 oz. pancetta, ½-inch dice
1 yellow onion, diced
1 fennel bulb, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
2 carrots, diced
½ cup roasted red peppers (jarred is fine)
5 garlic bulbs, minced
½ cup tomato paste
1 cup Black Rooster Chianti (or any red wine)
1 cup milk
2 cans (28 oz.) whole tomatoes, passed through a food mill
2 bay leaves
1 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind
grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving

Preparation: 1. In a large pot warm half the olive oil. Over high heat add the ground bison, pork, salt and pepper and cook until browned, about 12 minutes. Reserve to a paper towel lined bowl. 2. Add the pancetta to the pot and cook until crisp, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate. 3. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining olive oil. Add the onion, fennel, celery and carrots cook until soft and translucent (the Soffritto), about 8 minutes. Be patient here, as this is the flavor foundation of the ragù. 4. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for one minute. 5. Add the tomato paste and cook for two minutes. 6. Add the wine and simmer until almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. 7. Remove the entire mixture to your crock pot insert. The combine together the cooked meats, crisp pancetta, milk, rendered tomatoes, bay leaves, cheese rind, and bring to a simmer on the “high” setting. 8. When the ragù is bubbling (about 30 minutes, depending upon your crock pot) taste and season to your liking. Reduce setting to “low” and simmer for five to six hours.

Presentation: When ready to serve remove the cheese rind and bay leaves. Adjust your seasoning if required. Serve with pasta of your choice – you can toss the ragù with the pasta or serve it on top of the pasta as you like. Serve the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano along side. Present with the same Black Rooster Chianti you cooked with and with fresh bread.

Richard Wottrich

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