Butter-Poached Maine Lobster with Leeks, Pommes Maxim, and a Red Beet Essence
The French Laundry - Homarus americanus

English explorers started taking lobsters in Maine as early as 1605 and in 1880 they were so plentiful that they sold for two cents a pound in Boston. When my dad, Robert E. WOTTRICH was 14, his parents spent the summer in the tiny town of Camden beside Penobscot Bay in Maine. Camden was known as “the prettiest town in Maine” at the time, which was 1937. My grandfather Wilfred arranged for my dad to ride out on the lobster boats as a junior hand each of several mornings.

Fast forward to my days at Dartmouth College in 1964-1968, we would drive to Boston and pick up “chicken” lobsters (one pound or less) right on the docks for $1.00 each. We’d bring them back in the trunks of our cars along with buckets of steamers and seaweed and steam them over coals in big new galvanized garbage cans for the Green Key weekend each spring. Those trunks never smelled the same again!

As House Manager at Bones Gate fraternity (Delta Tau Delta) I was responsible for the lobster dinner. As chef this meant I could eat as much lobster as I was able and that was a considerable amount at the time. The trick was to stay away from cheap New York State champagne, which when combined with lobster usually made our dates quite ill!

So suffice it to say that I have boiled my share of Maine lobsters over the years. Imagine my surprise when I opened up a gift copy of “The French Laundry Cookbook” by Thomas Keller recently and learned that there was a better way to cook lobster! The French Laundry is the celebrated restaurant in Napa Valley, California.

Boiling lobster for several minutes in the time-honored tradition does cause the meat to seize up and become tough, and it makes it difficult to get any flavor into it. While great for summer beach parties, it loses in translation to the fine dining experience. If you take a lobster out of its shell before fully cooking it, you have more control over the taste and texture. Steep the lobster just enough so that its meat will pull away cleanly from the shell, leaving the interior raw, so you can treat it like raw fish. Try the following procedure and get ready for heaven itself.

Steeping the Lobsters: Fill a large pot with enough water to cover three 1 ½ to 2-pound live lobsters and bring to a boil. Add ½ cup of vinegar for every 8 quarts of water. Pour the boiling water onto the live lobsters in another pot and steep for 2 minutes if using 1½ pound lobsters, or 3 minutes for 2-pound lobsters. Remove the lobsters from the water, turn off the heat, but do not discard the water. One at a time, using a towel or rubber gloves to hold the lobster, grasp its tail and twist and pull to detach it. Twist and pull off the claws and return them to the water for 5 minutes. Reserve the bodies.

For the Tails: Hold each tail flat and twist the tail fan to one side, pull off and discard. Use your fingers to gently push the meat through the tail end and pull the meat out through the large opening at the other end. Lay the tail meat on its back and cut lengthwise in half through the middle. Remove the vein running through the top of the meat. Lay the meat on a paper towel-lined plate or platter, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

For the Claws: After 5 minutes, remove the claws from the hot water. Twist off each knuckle to remove it. Hold the claw in your hand and pull down to loosen the lower pincher. Push it to either side to crack it and pull it straight off. Ideally, the cartilage from inside the claw should be attached to the pincer and the claw meat should remain intact. Still holding the claw, crack the top of the shell with the heel of a knife, about ¾ inch from the joint where the knuckle is attached. You want to go through the shell, but not damage the meat. Wriggle the knife to loosen and crack the shell. If the shell doesn’t pop off, it may be necessary to turn the claw over and repeat the procedure. Shake the claw to remove the meat (if it doesn’t fall out, cut off the very tip of the shell and blow through the hole to release the meat).

For the Knuckles: Pull back and discard the top shell of each lobster, including the heads and antenna. Remove the tomalley, roe, lungs, and the sac behind the head. You can reserve the dark green roe for other uses, but discard the light green tomalley, feathery lungs and sac. You will be left with body and legs. Rinse them thoroughly under cold water and use immediately, or freeze them to make lobster stock or consommé.

Butter-Poached Maine Lobster with Leeks, Pommes Maxim, and a Red Beet Essence:

For the Pommes Maxim: (Which originated at Maxim’s in Paris) Preheat the oven to 300F. Peel one large 12-ounce potato and slice it into paper-thin rounds on a mandoline. Toss the rounds with clarified butter; they should be well coated. Arrange them on a Silpat-lined baking sheet, overlapping the slices by half to form a solid circular sheet of potatoes, or lay them in overlapping circles in a large ovenproof skillet. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Bake the potatoes for 45 to 50 minutes, or until they are crisp and golden brown. They may not hold together completely. These can be made hours ahead and left at room temperature.

For the Red Beet Essence: If using fresh beets, juice enough beets to make a generous cup. Reduce the beet juice slowly in a small saucepan to 2 to 3 tablespoons of glaze.

To Complete: For the lobsters, bring the pieces to room temperature. Place them in one layer in a large saucepan and add the beurre monté . The lobster should be almost covered. Place the pan over low heat and slowly poach the lobster in the butter for 5 to 6 minutes, just to heat it through.

Meanwhile, for the leeks (1 ½ cups leek rounds), warm the leek rounds in a saucepan. Add tomato diamonds (2 tablespoons), chives (2 teaspoons), Brunoise (1 tablespoon), and beurre monté (1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon).

Reheat the pommes Maxim in the oven for 2 to 3 minutes.

Bring the beet glaze to a simmer and whisk in the beurre monté (3 tablespoons), red wine vinegar (1/2 teaspoon) and a few drops of lemon juice.

Place a small spoonful of beet essence on each plate. Top with a generous tablespoon of leek mixture, a lobster tail, and a claw. Break off a piece of the pommes Maxim and place it on top of the lobster. Present. (Serves 6)

Richard Wottrich

NYC's Tavern on the Green files for Chapter 11 

 

Editor's Note: On July 6, 1945, my parents, Bob and Joan, were married at the Tavern on the Green in Manhattan. My dad was a Navy pilot on leave as WWII raged on in the Pacific. The pictures we have from their reception show a measured celebration, against the backdrop of war. The dinner was simple. Decorations were at a minimum. It was a different time.

 
NEW YORK (AP) — Tavern on the Green, the landmark restaurant in New York City's Central Park, has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.

The filing comes just four months before the 75-year-old restaurant is to hand over its license to another operator.

Tavern Chief Executive Jennifer Oz LeRoy blames the filing on the financial crisis and New York City's decision to give the Tavern license to a new operator.

The new license was granted to Dean J. Poll, who runs the Central Park Boathouse restaurant. The federal bankruptcy filing lists 20 creditors.

Poll, who takes over Jan. 1, plans to renovate with green technology. The original building, which dates to the 19th century, housed sheep. LeRoy's father, Warner, took over the Tavern in 1976. He died in 2001.

Information from: The New York Times, http://www.nytimes.com/

(Photo: Marais Market, Paris RLW)

Ten Principals of Healthy Eating
(Adapted from “In Defense of Food,” Michael Pollan)


Avoid Food You Do Not Understand
Do not eat anything your great grandmother would not recognize. Avoid food products that have ingredients you do not understand, or more than five unrecognized ingredients, or high-fructose corn syrup.

Avoid Engineered Foods
Avoid food products that make claims. An apple does not need a label. Fresh food does not need supplements. Humans do not need food pyramids. Eat more plants and their leaves. That is where the antioxidants are.

Learn To Market – Buy Often – Buy Fresh
If you must shop at a supermarket, shop around its edges (fruit, vegetables, bread, cheeses, meats) and stay out of the middle where the engineered foods are. Find a bakery, butcher, fruit and vegetable stand and farmer’s market that you like. Shop fresher and more often. Make it a habit.

Know Your Food’s Origin – Buy Quality – Buy Variety
You are what you eat eats too. Be aware of where your meat, dairy, vegetables and fruit come from. Closer is better. Grass-fed is better. Antibiotic and steroid free is better. If you find something that is perfect, buy it in quantity and freeze it.

Buy Local – Buy Heritage, Organic, Wild and Artisan Foods
Eat well-grown foods from healthy soils. Ask. If they can’t tell you where it is from, don’t buy. There will be an organic farm near you. Call and ask about heritage fruits and vegetables, artisan meats and cheeses, and wild plants.

Emulate Cuisines That Endure – Be Informed
Eat more like the French, Italians, Japanese, Indians, Greeks, or Turks. Google their diets. Buy cookbooks. Use them. Be informed about nutrition. Pick a good multivitamin that fits you and take it, especially as you get older.

Dine Together and Talk
Dine together as a family. Dine at a dining table. Not in your car, or on a bar stool, or anywhere that is not receptive to the enjoyment of food over time. This is where you teach your children manners, behavior, patience, ethics, humor, values and build their character. Have a glass of wine with dinner. Take your time and practice the art of conversation.

Practice Moderation
Pay more for quality. Buy better food in smaller amounts, unless you are preserving or freezing. Spend the same by eating less and stabilize a healthy weight. Don’t look for a magic bullet in the traditional healthy diet. You keep a healthy weight through being active and eating in moderation.

Respect Your Mind and Body
Listen to your body. It tells you how it feels, what it craves and when you are abusing it. Your body is the organism that takes care of your brain. Do not abuse it. You can’t trade it in. Eat slowly. Try not to eat alone.

Learn to Cook
Be in control. Meet and talk to people who grow and raise your food. Make the connection. Plant a garden. Plant and keep herbs. Learn to cook and then cook. Preparing food for people you care about is an act of respect and love. Enjoy life!

Richard L. Wottrich

Russell Gordon's magnificent painting of fish inspired me to cook the following recipe from Elizabeth David's Mediterranean Food published in 1950:

Mediterranean Fish Soup

3 or 4 Mackerel fillets cut into serving size chunks
1 Chopped Onion
1 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1 Tbsp. Tomato Puree
2 Minced Cloves Garlic
1 Bay Leaf
A Mix of Chopped Fennel Tops,Thyme& Parsley
Pinch of Saffron
2 lbs. Peas (Frozen or Fresh)
2.5 cups Boiling Water
Salt & Pepper
Fat slices of Artisan bread

Saute onion in olive oil until golden, add tomato puree, stir, toss in garlic and herbs. Pour in boiling water, salt, pepper, saffron & peas if they are fresh. Allow to simmer until peas are cooked (if required) or simply until the flavors meld if using frozen peas (about 5 minutes). Add the mackerel and if using the frozen peas. Simmer until fish is firm & white. Place bread slice in the bottom of shallow soup bowls. Ladle fish, peas & broth. Enjoy!

Basil & Peppers - Wottrich Herb Garden

Roasted Red Peppers & Goat Cheese Bruschetta

Matching roasted peppers with goat cheese is an ancient pairing. There are hundreds of pepper varieties out there and many are available at markets today. Select them as to your taste and in perfect condition.

2 medium mild red peppers, roasted, remove skin and seeds, chopped
1 small hot pepper of your choice, same preparation
1 medium log of goat cheese, set out to soften
2 shallots, finely chopped
Fresh herbs to your taste, chopped
1 tablespoon fine olive oil
½ teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste
1 loaf of rustic bread, your choice

Preparation: 1. Roast the peppers whole over your grill or under your broiler until well charred. Wrap in a dish towel and set aside to cool completely. 2. In a mixing bowl combine the chopped shallots, herbs, lemon juice, and olive oil. 3. Remove the skin from the cool peppers (do not run water over the peppers as that removes flavor) and then quarter to remove stem and seeds. Chop the peppers into a medium dice. Mix with the shallots (add the hot pepper to your taste). 4. Cut thick slabs of bread and toast. Spread the goat cheese on the toast and then the peppers. Add salt and ground pepper to your taste. Serve with a crisp Riesling white wine.

Rogue Creamery in Oregon Wins Best in Show at ACS Competition With Its Blue Cheese

We just returned from Portland where we feasted on this remarkable blue cheese from the Rogue Creamery, founded in 1935.

Rogue Creamery

Cucumbers á la Grecque

For those who have seen Julie & Julia (2009), a celebration of food and marriage, a featured recipe was Cucumbers á la Grecque. This delicious recipe is from Julia Child's famous revolutionary "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," published in 1961.

The art of cooking vegetables in an aromatic broth, or Court Bouillon, is a lost skill in this country well worth resuming.

Court Bouillon

1 pound cucumbers (about 4 cups)
2 cups water
6 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons minced shallot or green onions

Tied in Cheesecloth

6 sprigs parsley including root if available
1 small celery stalk with leaves or 1/8 teaspoon celery seeds
1 spring fresh fennel or 1/8 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 spring fresh thyme or 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
12 peppercorns
6 coriander seeds
(or any other herbs and spices as you like)

Preparation:

1. Peel cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Cut halves into 1/2-inch strips lengthwise, then into 2-inch pieces. Toss with 1/2 teaspoon of salt for each 4 cups of cucumber pieces, and let stand in a bowl for 20 minutes.

2. In an enameled or stainless steel saucepan place all of the Court Bouillon ingredients (excepting the cucumbers) and bring to a simmer. Drain the cucumbers thoroughly, put them into the Court Bouillon, and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and reserve the cucumbers nicely arranged on a serving dish and place in refrigerator. Reduce (boil) the Court Bouillon down to roughly 1/3 cup. Pour it over the cucumbers and chill. (I substituted black mustard seeds for the coriander seeds.)

3. Sprinkle minced fresh green herbs on the cucumbers just before serving. Cracked pepper is a must. Experiment with other vegetables such as artichoke hearts, celery, eggplant, fennel, leeks, onions, broccoli and combinations thereof.

Julia Child - 1963 - The reason I cook...

Sautéed Greens & Blue Cheese

(Photo - RLW - Chef picking greens, Auberge du Bois Prin, Chamonix by Mont Blanc, France)

Some of the healthiest dishes you can prepare are leaf vegetables, or greens. I have been experimenting with different combinations of greens and discovered to my pleasant surprise that delicious side dishes can result.

Try to find fresh greens at a local farmers market, grown and picked locally. The key is that they be richly green and absolutely fresh. Prepare them the same day you buy them.

Typically available greens are spinach of course and members of the Cruciferae family, kale and collards (both Brassica oleracea var. acephala). Unlike cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata), neither kale nor collards forms a head—thus the name "acephala" which means 'forming no head'. Kale and collards are the oldest forms of cabbage and are native to the eastern Mediterranean region of Europe or to Asia Minor. The use of kale as a food dates to 2000 B.C.E. or earlier.

Nutritionally greens are super foods vis-à-vis their weight and cost. A serving (1½ cups) of cooked spinach has forty calories and provides 70 percent of the recommended daily allowance (RDA) for adults of vitamin A, 25 percent of the RDA of vitamin C, and 20 percent of the RDA of iron. Spinach also contains high levels of calcium, phosphorus, potassium and it has moderate levels of protein. A serving of Swiss chard (3½ oz.) provides 130 percent of the adult RDA of vitamin A and 25 percent of the adult RDA of vitamin C.

Other great choices are from the Broccoli raab (Brassica campestris) family, also known by such names as raab, rapa, rapini, broccoli turnip, spring broccoli, cima di rapa, taitcat, Italian turnip, and Italian mustard. It is a highly regarded leaf green in Italy and other Mediterranean countries.

Experiment and enjoy!

1 large clump of greens; fresh spinach, kale or Broccoli raab
1 medium head of broccoli
1 large Vidalia onion, sliced thinly
1 cup of fresh basil leaves
1 Pablano pepper, roasted, deseeded, skinned and sliced
¼ cup pine nuts, briefly sautéed on high heat
½ cup crumbled blue cheese
1 tablespoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon of butter
1 tablesoon of olive oil
Salt and ground pepper to taste

Preparation:

1. Clean and prepare the greens, chopping the leaves in bite-sized pieces. If the stems are large and tough, reserve them for another usage (such as a stew vegetable). Or you can thinly slice the stems and use them in the dish, your choice. Thinly slice the Vidalia onion. Place both in a large bowl of cold water, adding a splash of lemon juice and apple vinegar and reserve.

2. Separate the broccoli flowerets and place in a large pot of salted water and reserve.

3. Roast the Pablano pepper on the grill or under the broiler until the skin is blackened. Wrap the pepper in a kitchen towel and cool. Remove the skin of the pepper, running cold water on it occasionally to speed the process. Remove the stem and interior white flesh and seeds. Slice thinly in one inch strips and reserve.

4. Bring the broccoli flowerets to a quick boil and immediately remove and submerge in cold water.

5. Sauté the pine nuts in a fry pan until just golden brown; about two minutes.

6. In a wok or large stir-fry pan melt the butter and add the olive oil. Drain the greens and onion slices and shake off excess water. Carefully place them into the wok. On high heat briefly toss the vegetables for one minute and turn off the heat. 6. Drain the broccoli flowerets and add to the vegetables in the wok. Add the basil leaves, pine nuts, Pablano pepper strips, and the crumpled blue cheese. Splash on a tablespoon of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil. On high heat toss the mixture several times as the vegetables sizzle; not more than a minute or two. Do not overcook! The greens should still be crisp and firm. Salt and pepper to your taste.

Presentation: Sautéed greens are delicious with just about any meat or fish course, but roasted pork tenderloin or a simple meat loaf work just fine. Serving this on top of slices of freshly toasted bread is delicious as well - like a bruschetta.

Richard Wottrich

Perfect Guacamole
4 Cups

I have never been a big fan of avocados until I became comfortable with Rick Bayless's cooking, restaurants and cookbooks. Bayless knows what he is doing and his technique for Guacamole presents a wonderfully flavorful dish. The key as always is fresh, fresh, fresh!

Tomato-Serrano Salsa

1 large ripe, round tomato, cut in 1/8-inch dice
2-3 fresh Serrano chilies to your taste, stemmed and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, roasted if you like, peeled and very finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
1/2 cup finely diced white onion, plus more for garnish

3 large (1.5 pounds) soft-ripe avocados (I prefer Hass avacados)
2-3 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
radish slices or roses for garnish

1. In a small bowl mix together the tomato, chilies, garlic and cilantro. Rinse the onion in a strainer under cold water; shake off water and add to the bowl.

2. Cut the avocados in half, running your knife length wise from the stem to the bottom around the pit, producing a seam around the avocados. Twist the two haves in opposite directions and the avocado will split in two. Gently tap your knife into the pit and pop it out, or use a spoon. With a large spoon scoop out the avocados flesh, running it along the skin. Place flesh in a medium bowl.

3. Roughly mash the avocados with a large fork. I prefer a chunky texture, but you may enjoy a smoother presentation. Stir in the salsa, taste and season with lime juice and salt. I prefer sea salt. Cover with plastic wrap pressed tightly over the guacamole and let sit a few minutes for the flavors to merge. Serve sprinkled with chopped onion, cilantro, radish slices, along with fresh tortilla chips for dipping.

Nutrients in avacados:

Folate - Lowers homocysteine levels in the blood stream, which may prevent heart disease, stroke, and Alzheimer's disease; reduces the risk of birth defects like spina bifida and promotes healthy cell and tissue development.

Vitamin E - Helps slow the aging process and protects against heart disease and various forms of cancer.

Monounsaturated Fat - Helps lower LDL (bad) cholesterol and boost HDL (good) cholesterol. Avocados are one of the only fruits that provide babies with the "good" fat. Monounsaturated fat is essential for cognitive and visual development.

Beta-Sitosterol - Helps inhibit the absorption of cholesterol and promotes lower cholesterol levels.

Lutein - Protects against prostate cancer and eye diseases such as cataracts and macular degeneration.

Glutathione - Functions as an antioxidant like vitamin E to neutralize free radicals that can cause cell damage and lead to disease.

(Photo: RLW; Watermellon Carving, Wind Star 4-Masted Sailing Ship, Greek Islands)

Watermellon, Tomatoes & Feta With Fresh Mint

This recipe comes from daughter Kelly.

4 cups medium diced watermellon (seedless)

4 cups medium diced tomatoes

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup honey

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

salt to taste

Combine watermellon and tomatoes in a mixing bowl. In a separate bowl mix the vinegar and honey, then adding it to the fruit. Add the chopped mint and salt. Toss and plate and then sprinkle on the feta. Variations are encouraged.

The History of Steak Tartare

Google Knol: http://knol.google.com/k/richard-wottrich/the-history-of-steak-tartare/1vhlibf1nd0t1/3#

Fruit Stand, Istanbul, Turkey

(Photo: RLW)

Cuban Pork with CeleryRoot Puree

Fred Murphy's painting portrays the southern version of surreptitious garden bounty left on the doorstep. In Florida we are awash in citrus this time of year. There are only so many oranges one can actually eat...Cuban Pork with Celery Root Puree is a great way to use up some of those sour oranges which are not fit to eat or juice without a little help. The sauce is delicate and spectacular with the Celery root puree:

Marinade a large Pork Loin in:

6 cups Orange Juice from sour oranges or
Orange juice soured with lime juice
4 to 5 Garlic cloves minced
Mexican Oregano dried a good sized fist full
1 Anaheim Pepper minced and de-seeded
Generous Salt & pepper
1 cup lightly flavored Olive oil (not extra virgin)

for several hours.
Bake at 350 in the marinade until well done
Meanwhile

Cube & boil in water
1 Celery root
6 peeled red potatoes
1 small head cauliflower

until pierces easily with a fork

Drain, return to hot pan, keep on burner, mashing while you cool out the water, then add 1/4 stick of butter and a cup of whole milk and turn off the heat while you mash the mixture, add salt & white pepper to taste. Keep in pan covered until ready to serve (you can keep it warm on a simmer plate)

Remove pork...it should be falling apart when you slice it

De-grease pan & reduce marinade
Add 1/4 cup cointreau & 1 cup heavy cream.

Reduce over high heat until spoon dragged across the bottom of the pan bares the pan.

Serve pork sliced nested on puree, top with sauce
Garnish with small wild bitter oranges.

Fred Murphy's painting of Eggplants & Lemons inspired the following creation:

Eggplant & Fennel Saute with Preserved Lemons

1 Full-sized Eggplant

4 Bulbs Fennel

2 Cloves Garlic

1 Preserved Lemon*

1/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Salt & Pepper

1/2 Cup or more Dry Cured Black Olives

Peel & cube eggplant, salt & allow to drain for 1/2 hour. Cut fennel bulb into slices, discarding core and outer tough leaves. Mince garlic. Chop Preserved Lemons to 1 " squares, retaining juice & pulp. Put enough olive oil to coat pan. Saute Fennel until tender, add garlic, saute until golden. Add Eggplant & lemon, including juice & pulp. Add more olive oil if necessary. When Eggplant is soft, toss in olives, salt & pepper to taste & serve.

*Preserved Lemon is available through specialty groceries & cooking supply stores like Sur la Table or Williams Sonoma.

New Year’s Eve Dinner

Amuse Broche

Jamón Ibérico Ham & Ibérico Cheese on Toasted Baguettes
Medjool Dates Marinated in Pastis

1998 Veuve Clicquet Pansardin, Champagne

First Course

Jamie Oliver Tarragon Salad with Red Grapes
Gruyere, Fennel & White Radish, Vinaigrette

Second Course

Smoked Trout Pate with Capers, Crème Fraîche, Sour Cream & Shallots
On Toasted Banquettes with Stone Ground Mustard & Cornichons

2007 Verdillac Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux

Third Course

Mango, Pineapple & Cream Sorbet
Blackberries & Mint

Fourth Course

Roasted Mustard-Herbed Sirloin Tip
With Pearl Onions & Shitake Mushrooms

2001 Château Faugères Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Desert

Pineapple Coconut Cake

2006 Losen-Bockstanz, Riesling Beerenauslese (Eiswein)

Poncelet Fennel, Paris

Sharon's Jell-O Fruit Mold

What would the holidays be without this tribute of love?

Sue Fosters Red & White floral captures my kitchen in early December

http://www.mgalleryoffineart.com/masterpiece/title.php?ititlenum=11015

which moves into a hodgepodge of decorations, candy & cookie making and general chaos.

This time of year our family marks the Western Christian season of Advent (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advent) by lighting candles, reading aloud from various religions' scriptures about the sequential themes of the season: Hope, Peace, Joy and Love. We usually share a simple meal, followed by a special sweet and then begin our little ritual. It is a wonderful reflective time together and this season I am fortunate to have two of my adult children, two of their friends, as well as two of my husband's teen aged grandchildren living with us. The household is multinational, multi racial, multi faith, boisterous and full of hilarity. When choosing the menus for this season's first Sunday (which is all about Hope) the "big kids" thought a rename of one of their favorite cookies was in order. My apologies to anyone who takes offense..but these are yummy.

Hoped for Barackaroons

Heat Oven to 350, Parchment line a baking sheet

1/4 cup sugar
2 1/2 cups freshly and finely grated coconut
2 egg whites
3 oz chocolate chips
A few drops of almond extract
A pinch of salt

Mix ingredients, scoop small mounds onto baking sheet spaced apart as for cookies. Bake 15-20 minutes until golden. Cool on a wire rack.

Linguine alla Carbonara di Salsiccia
Serves Four

This is a Jamie Oliver recipe from his Jamie’s Italy cookbook (2006, Hyperion, New York), which I adapted that encompasses all that is wonderful about simple cooking with perfect ingredients. Jamie calls this pasta for breakfast, because it has a silky smooth sauce composed of egg yolks, heavy cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano. What I like about the dish is its complex favor achieved in such a short time.

4 good-quality organic Italian sausages or any sausage you enjoy
4 slices of pancetta or bacon, chopped
1 cup of porcini mushrooms, sliced
1 pound dried linguine
4 large eggs yolks, preferably organic
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup lemon juice
3 ½ ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 zest of one lemon
sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to your taste
1 shot glass of limoncello, or a liquor of your choice

Preparation: 1. With a sharp knife slit the sausage skins lengthwise and pop the meat out. Using your hands, make small meat balls about the size of large marbles and reserve. 2. Heat a large frying pan and add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Gently fry the sausage meatballs until golden brown all over, then add the pancetta and continue to cook for a couple of minutes, until it’s golden. Toss in the porcini mushrooms and sauté for one minute and then turn the heat off. 3. Meanwhile start a large pot of salted water boiling, add the linguine, and cook until al dente. 4. In a large bowl whip up the egg yolks, cream, half the parmesan cheese, limoncello, the lemon zest and the parsley until it is silky smooth. 5. When the pasts is done, reserve one cup of its water, and drain the pasta in a colander. 6. Add the pasta immediately to the large bowl with the sauce in it, plus the sausage, pancetta and mushrooms. Toss everything together, season to your taste, and serve at once with sprinkled parmesan and freshly ground pepper. If the dish is too dry add olive oil and more of the pasta cooking water.

Presentation: This is a one dish dinner or a great pasta course. Serve with fresh bread and a glass of champagne or as you prefer.

(Click on Menu)

Shanghai Terrace

Peninisula Hotel, Chicago
November 7, 2008

(Photo: RLW; Poncelet Market, Paris)

Summer Herbal Dinner
The Wottrichs - August 23, 2008

Amuse Broche

Triple Surprise
Crème Fraiche & Dill; Goat Cheese, Olive Oil & Chives; Sundried Tomato Tapenade
(Three layers in very small ramikins; put under the broiler briefly until the Tapenade bubbles)
(Adapted from The Paris Cookbook by Patricia Wells)
“Wet” Sparkling Wine, M. Lawrence Winery, Leelanau Peninsula

First Course

Grilled Peaches & Goat Cheese Salad
Michigan Black Cherry Vinaigrette
(Adapted from a recipe by Jamie Oliver)

Second Course

“Steak & Potatoes”
Asian Curry Steak Tartare with Wasabi & Horseradish Mashed Potatoes
2006 Riesling Bollenberg, Chateau D’Orschwihr, France

Third Course

Mango, Pineapple, Lemon Grass & Pastis Sorbet
Yellow Watermelon

Fourth Course

Basque Sautéed Shrimp, Tomatoes, Holy (Tulsi) Basil & Pastis with Arborio Rice
(Adapted from The Basque Kitchen by Gerald Hirigoyen)
2001 Barolo, Ginestra, Paolo Conterno, Piemonte, Italy

Desert

Sharon’s Mint Chocolate Cake
2004 Riesling Ice Wine, Black Star Farms, Leelanau Peninsula

Richard Wottrich

Peaches with Dry Cured Pork Jowl

Clayton Beck captured these peaches so ripened they had developed a blue cast: a sure sign they are ready. All the road sides now have Georgia peaches for sale (along with boiled peanuts much to my puzzlement - does any one know what to do with boiled peanuts besides throw them out?) which are dead ripe and so full of juice it runs down your arm.

So many peaches and so many options leads me to pairing peaches with dry cured pork jowl. Simply: Thinly slice guacinal i.e. dry-cured pork jowl. (Available on-line from http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/ ) and saute over medium high heat with a great olive oil until lightly crisped. Drain on paper towels. In a cast iron pan or griddle over medium heat saute slices of yellow vidallia onions in butter until soft, add thick slices of peaches and sprinkle with brown sugar and fresh thyme leaves. Drizzle a little maple syrup and cook until the sugars carmelize and the peaches are soft, onions browning; turn frequently to avoid burning the sugars. Place on a bed of mixed greens, top with the guacinal and sprinkle with a bit of citrus vinegar, olive oil and grind pepper over the whole thing.

This dish pairs well with cold tomato based soups. A baguette along side slathered in sweet cream butter and sea salt accompanied by ice cold Tio Pepe dry sherry with a twist of lemon peel makes for a simple but wonderful summer lunch. Enjoy!

Maggie Kruger

Guy Savoy, Paris

Oysters in the shell set on oyster purée, lightly enriched with cream, which covers the base of the shell; the raw oyster is placed on top and then the jelly is poured on, followed by a little chopped sorrel for a note of acidity, lemon, pepper, and that's it - pure heaven!

"It was a brave man who first ate an oyster" - Jonathan Swift

Summer Corn Soup

Soup:
3 c. whole milk
1 c. chicken stock
1 c. heavy cream (optional)
4 ears fresh corn, preferably 2 white, 2 yellow, kernels cut from cobs, cobs broken in half, reserve
1 large white onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled, diced
1 garlic clove, diced
2 large fresh thyme springs
2 large fresh rosemary sprigs
1 fresh bay leaf
salt and ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter

Garnish:
chopped green onion and fresh cilantro

Bring milk and corncobs just to a boil in a medium pot. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep while sautéing vegetables.

Melt 2 T. butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, salt, pepper & sauté until translucent. Reserve. Sauté corn kernels in butter, salt, pepper until tender , about 10 minutes, reserve.

Add chicken stock, 1 c. heavy cream if desired, herbs bundled together with string, & vegetables. Increase heat to high, bring to a boil and then simmer 20 minutes. Discard corn kernels and herb bundle. Garnish and serve with crusty bread.

Bayonne Iberian Ham

St. Jean Pied de Port, France

2005 - 87.24 euros ($138)

6.4 kiliograms - 13.6 euro per kilo

(15.33 pounds - $9.00 per pound)

Price today: $19.00 per pound

Wild Mushrooms

Basque Country

2005 - 20 euro per kilogram

($13.25 per pound)

(Photos: RLW)

Citrus Granita

Natalie George painted this great little painting of citrus and it reminds me that in Florida this time of year nothing tastes better than a simple Citrus Granita.

4 Cups of water
1.25 Cups sugar
1.25 Cups mixed fresh citrus juice
1 Lemon rind, finely grated

Boil water and sugar for several minutes creating simple syrup. Cool. Add citrus juices & lemon rind. Chill until cold. Prepare in a common ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's directions. Or freeze in ice cube trays and process in a food processor until a soft frothy slush...Enjoy!

Maggie Kruger

Caldo Tlalpeño
(Soup of Tlalpan[1], Mexico)
Serves 6 as a Main Course

Our good friends, Lucy and Gilberto of Mexico City, are responsible for this great soup/stew. Lucy and I have exchanged recipes and discussed cooking over the past few years. I sent her Jacques Pépin's autobiography recently and Lucy responded with her “family” cookbook, Los Rangel: Cocina de familia. Caldo Tlalpeño is the first recipe in this book I have tried. As Los Rangel is entirely in Spanish, Sharon suggested that I look up the recipe on the Internet, where I found various English translations.

This soup was served to Queen Elizabeth at President Reagan’s ranch during her visit there in 1983. The White House chef had asked Craig Claiborne (the late, great New York Times food critic [1920-2000]) to provide a recipe for a light, intensely flavored Mexican soup. This is certainly that.

2 dried chipotle chilies
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
3 Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
1 clove garlic, peeled
6 cups chicken stock
6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 chicken breast haves; skinned and boneless; each cut into thirds
1 potato, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 chayote squash, unpeeled, cut into bite-sized pieces (optional)
1 xoconoxtle[2] (optional) (substitute zucchini)
1 cup garbanzo beans; dried and soaked, or canned.
1 small zucchini, cut into bite-size pieces
1 cup chopped green beans
1 cup green peas (thawed if frozen)
1 cup white corn (thawed if frozen)
1 Key lime, halved (or regular lime)
1 avocado; spoon-sized chunks (aguacates[3])
6 scallions; sliced into bite sized bits
1 Can of chipotle chilies or hot sauce to your taste
4 sprigs epazote[4] (optional) (substitute cilantro)
Fresh cilantro and mint to your taste
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation: 1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large soup pot; fry the 2 dried chilies slowly, turning them over often in the oil until softened and puffed up. The oil should not be too hot or the chilies will burn. 2. While cooking the chilies, dredge the 12 chicken pieces lightly in flour, salt and pepper. In a fry pan heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil and the butter. Brown the chicken well and drain. 3. Place the tomato, onion, garlic and one can of chicken stock in a blender and whirl until pureed. 4. When the chipotle chilies are softened, add the puree to the soup pot, increase the heat and "fry" the mixture until it deepens in color. 5. Add the chicken pieces to the pot, along with more chicken stock as needed (about 2 cups), the cubed potato, chayote squash, xoconoxtle, garbanzo beans and salt. Cover the pot and simmer the soup for 20 to 30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked. 6. Then add the zucchini, green beans, white corn, and green peas to the pot and cook 10 minutes longer, until the vegetables are tender. 7. Add the epazote, cilantro and mint and stir. 8. Remove the two chipotle chilies from the pot, mince and return it to the soup. 8. Add the canned chipotle chilies and their sauce to the soup to your taste. Heat through and season to taste with more salt and pepper, more chicken stock, and more chilies if needed.

Presentation: 1. Place one piece of chicken breast and one thigh in the bottom of each soup bowl. Ladle the soup and vegetables on top. Garnish with chopped scallions and sprigs of cilantro. Squeeze lime juice on each serving. Serve with fresh peasant bread and a cold Mexican beer, or a late harvest Gewürztraminer white wine.

Secret Ingredients: I happened to have some pearl onions at hand, which I plunged in boiling water, shocked in cold water, popped out of their skins, and tossed into the soup for the last ten minutes of cooking. I also added one tablespoon of dark brown sugar, which I think rounds out the flavor of the chilies (like chocolate in a mole).

Richard L. Wottrich

[1] Tlalpan (tlahl-pahn), city (1990 pop. 484,866), Tlalpan delegation, Federal dist., central Mexico, 10 mi/16 km S of Mexico city; 19°17'N 99°09'W. Elev. 7,526 ft/2,294 m. Resort and residential suburb on NW slopes of extinct Cerro Ajusco volcano, with orchards, picturesque fountains. Textile- and paper-milling center. Has church of San Agustin de las Cuevas (1532). Anc. Aztec city. Famous Cuicuilco pyramid, 1.5 mi/2.4 km W. Sometimes spelled Tlalpam.
[2] Xoconoxtle Also spelled: xoconostle; a small, sour, pink and green prickly pear cactus.
[3] Aguacates (noun, masc., plural): testicles. (lit) avocados; (Mexican slang)
[4] Epazote pronounced [eh-paw-ZOH-teh] An herb well-known to Mexican and Caribbean cooking. The name comes from the Aztec (Nahuatl) epazotl. It is also known as pigweed or Mexican tea and is frequently regarded as a garden pest. It is most commonly used in black bean recipes to ward off some of the "negative" side affects of eating beans. Much like cilantro, it is referred to as an "acquired taste". Also called wormwood.

Braised Cabbage
Serves 6

This dish is a substitute for the usual sauerkraut served in German restaurants. It has a more home cooked flavor than commercially prepared sauerkraut and is easy to make. Braising adds layers of flavor.

Sauerkraut is finely-sliced white cabbage fermented with lactobacillus bacteria. The sugars in the cabbage are thereby converted into lactic acid and serve as a preservative. Basic sauerkraut is made by cutting fresh cabbage into fine strips, and packing it into an airtight container while mixing in a certain amount of salt, approximately 1.5%. Traditionally, a stoneware crock is used. The fermentation vessel is kept at 23C for three days, then left in cooler temperatures for eight weeks.

Sauerkraut is thought to have originated in the north of China among the Mongols and was introduced in Europe by migrating tribes. Eastern Europeans, in particular, consume large amounts of sauerkraut. Germans adopted sauerkraut as part of their cuisine and are thought to have introduced it in the northern countries Western Europe and the United States. Sauerkraut is a staple of the winter diet in Germany and the Netherlands. Sauerkraut is customarily prepared with pork, goose or duck meat.

 1 medium head of white cabbage, halved, cored & shredded
1 medium white onion, sliced
2 strips of smoked bacon, cooked and chopped
2 cups of beef stock
2 tablespoons of apple vinegar
1 baby carrot peeled and cut into ¼-inch sections
2 tablespoons of butter
1 bay leaf
Caraway seeds to taste
celery salt to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped parsley and chives to taste

Preparation: 1. Sauté the sliced white onions in a heavy casserole over high heat on the stove until softened, about five minutes. 2. Add the shredded cabbage and toss with the onions. 3. Add the beef stock, apple vinegar, carrots, bay leaf, Caraway seeds, celery salt, salt and pepper, and the chopped parsley and chives. Toss the mixture. 4. Sprinkle the chopped bacon over the top. 5. Place the casserole in an oven at 300 degrees and cook for at least one and one half hours.

Presentation: Either serve immediately or refrigerate and serve the next day. This dish is excellent with pork, duck or a roasted chicken. Oven roasted potatoes and gravy are a must!

Richard Wottrich

45-Minute Pan Roasted Chicken

This is a Jamie Oliver inspired dish that encompasses all that is wonderful about simple cooking with perfect ingredients. Roasting means just that. There is no liquid present when roasting, which allows temperatures next to the meat to exceed the boiling point. The key to this dish is a very high temperature that sears the juices in the chicken, while retaining the flavor of the chicken fat and herbs in the surrounding potatoes and bread.

1 - 5 to 7 pound roasting chicken or capon, cut into sections
6 - potatoes, peeled and quartered lengthwise like steak fries
1 - whole loaf of rustic crusty bread
1 - leek cleaned and cut in quarter-inch rounds
1 - red pepper, sliced
1 - large bunch of fresh herbs of your choice
½ - cup lemon juice
1 - spray can of olive or canola oil
6 - tablespoons of butter, melted
salt and pepper
1 - 14-inch cast iron or steel fry pan

Preparation: 1. Heat your oven to 425~450 degrees or set your outside grill to the same general temperature. If using a grill, indirect heat is best. Take the 14-inch cast iron fry pan and spray the interior with the oil. Arrange large clumps of fresh herbs to cover the bottom of the pan. I used rosemary, lemon balm and chives for this dish. This will perfume the chicken. 2. Place the peeled and quartered potatoes in a bowl and toss them with olive oil, salt and pepper. Arrange them around the perimeter of the fry pan. 3. Take the loaf of bread and rip it into bite sized chunks and cover the center of the pan to make a bed for the chicken. 3. Wash the chicken pieces and rub them with lemon juice. Spray the chicken with oil and then arrange them in a single centered flat layer in the pan, pieces just touching 4. Scatter the chopped leek and sliced red pepper across the pan along with sprigs of rosemary. Salt and pepper generously. 5. After 30 minutes of roasting brush melted butter on the tops of the chicken pieces. Roast for a total of roughly 45 minutes, or until the chicken juices run clear. When done remove from the grill and let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Presentation: Each plate should have a little of everything from the pan. You will not believe how delicious the bread is. Serve with a dry white wine. A simple salad of sliced tomatoes and goat cheese is a nice accompaniment.

Sautéed Shrimp in Pastis
Serves 8

The start for this recipe comes from “The Basque Kitchen” by chef Gerald Hirigoyen. We have visited and enjoyed his restaurant Fringale in San Francisco, where he and his wife Cameron reside and also own and run Pastis. We first became acquainted with the Basque Region by virtue of meeting Tony Paget’s wife, Mercedes, in Paris in 2000. Mercedes is Basque and she told us stories about her people. Subsequently in 2005 we took a Backroads hiking trip through the Basque regions of both Spain and France and had variations of this dish.

The spirit behind this version of Hirigoyen's original recipe is to adapt what is essentially a summer dish into a winter dish, by roasting fresh tomatoes for more intense flavor.

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 stick unsalted butter
2 pounds uncooked shrimp (16-20 per pound), shelled and deveined, 4 to 5 per person.
20 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 medium bulb of fennel, trimmed and sliced thinly
5 tablespoons Pernod pastis (see footnote below)
½ cup dry white wine
1 clove garlic, chopped
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped rosemary
2 tablespoons julienned fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
Kosher or sea salt to taste
Freshly cracked pepper to taste

Preparation: 1. Preheat an oven to 300 degrees. Place the 40 halves of tomatoes cut side up on a cookie sheet. Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes; sprinkle on sea salt and the rosemary. Add ground black pepper. Roast in the oven for two hours or until they resemble sun dried tomatoes. Reserve. 2. Shell and devein the shrimp. Reserve over ice. 2. Heat the butter in a large sauté pan. Add the fennel and sauté about five minutes until just soft, stirring frequently (do not overcook). 3. Add the tomatoes, shrimp and garlic and the pastis, ignite and flambé until the flame dies away. 4. Turn the heat down. Add the lemon juice, basil, parsley and chives. Adjust salt and pepper to your taste. Swirl the pan over the heat until the shrimp are completely covered in sauce. (Do not boil the sauce.)

Presentation: Serve as an appetizer for 8 in small bowls. Serve with a semi-sweet wine. Serve as a main course for four plated with plain Arborio rice, spooning the shrimp and sauce onto the middle of a one-cup serving of rice. Garnish with parsley.

Notes: Wild caught Key West, Gulf of Mexico, or Alaskan shrimp are preferred. Much of our shrimp today comes frozen from shrimp farms in Viet Nam, Thailand, Indonesia and Brazil. Shrimp farms are the number one threat to mangrove forests, the coastal wetlands that provide vital habitat for tropical fisheries and protect coastlines from damage by storms, hurricanes and tsunamis.

China has become a huge exporter of farmed white shrimp as well. These shrimp aqua-monocultures are very susceptible to diseases, which have caused several regional wipe-outs of farm shrimp populations, increasing ecological problems, and repeated disease outbreaks. The taste of these shrimp is “muddy.” I would advise buying wild shrimp.

Pernod Pronunciation (pear-NOH) - This is a popular brand of pastis, or licorice-flavored liqueur. It tastes like a fennel, which can be substituted for those who do not want alcohol in the dish [remember that flaming the pastis removes perhaps half the alcohol content]. Substitutes: Ricard, Herbsaint, or anisette.

Richard Wottrich (Photo: RLW; Shrimp Boat, Oslo, Norway)

Papaya, Pineapple and Lemon Grass Sherbet
Serves 8

A sherbet is usually distinguished from a sorbet in that a sorbet never contains milk products or eggs – it is an “ice.” I have been making ices for several years, usually with fresh fruit in season and fresh herbs for character. This particular Valentine’s Day invented recipe is perhaps the best I have done in my opinion, as well as the first time I have used heavy cream resulting in a sherbet.

Contemporary narratives would hold that Nero, the Roman Emperor, invented sorbet during the 1st century AD. It is said he sent runners along the Appian Way and they passed buckets of snow hand over hand from the mountains to his banquet hall where it was then mixed on the spot with honey and wine. The truth is that any culture with access to snow and ice probably mixed it with whatever they had to eat and cooled their drinks as well. The Chinese have made concoctions from snow, juice, and fruit pulp for several thousand years, as recorded in a poem from around 1100 BC in the collection of food canons (Shih Ching). The Sicilians purportedly learned how to make granita (Italian for sorbet) and sherbet from the Arabs, who discovered how to freeze their sharab, later sharbat (sherbet).

Whatever the name, they are a wonderful change of pace between courses in any dinner.

1 pineapple
1 papaya
1 stalk lemon grass
2 cups water
2 cups sugar
½ cup heavy cream
   pinch of salt

Preparation: 1. Trim, core and peel the pineapple; cutting up one half into half-inch cubes. Do the same with the papaya. Reserve the balance for another use. 2. Trim and section the lemon grass into short lengths, smashing the pieces flat with the side of a broad knife. 3. In a sauce pan mix the water with the sugar and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and stir until the sugar “disappears.” Let cool. 4. Put the pineapple, papaya and lemon grass into a mixer and add half of the sugar water mixture. Blend at high speed. Add more sugar water if necessary. 5. Strain the resulting mixture through a sieve into a large bowl, “pushing” the liquid through with a spatula. Add the remaining sugar water. Add a pinch a salt. Add the cream. Blend with a whisk. 6. Pour the sherbet into an ice cream maker and churn for 30-40 minutes until it firms up. Scrape the sorbet into a container and freeze, or serve semi-soft at once.

Presentation: Serve the sorbet as a separate course or desert in a tall serving glass or martini glass. Place a half slice of lemon on the edge and a spring of mint on top. This sherbet matches well with a German ice wine.

Richard Wottrich

Apple and Fig Melba
Serves 6

What is a Melba? The familiar foods named for Helen Porter Mitchell are not recognizable unless one knows that her stage name was Dame Nellie Melba. This famous opera singer of the late 19th and early 20th century, who took her last name from her native city of Melbourne, inspired others to honor her by naming “soaps and sauces, ribbons and ruffles” after her. The best known of these honors are Melba toast and Peach Melba.

Auguste Escoffier, the famous chef, is thought to have had a hand in both. Melba toast is said to be derived from the crisp toast that was part of Dame Melba's diet during the year 1897, a year in which she was very ill. The hotel proprietor César Ritz supposedly named it in a conversation with Escoffier. Pêche Melba was said to have been created by Escoffier for an 1892 party honoring the singer at the Savoy Hotel in London, although neither Escoffier nor Melba agreed with this version of events. Peach Melba is first recorded in English in 1905 (in the form Pêches à la Melba) and Melba toast in 1925. This is my take on the old classic.

4 crisp tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced
18 fresh Black Mission figs, trimmed and sliced in half
2 cups brown sugar
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons sour cherry syrup
2 tablespoons of Pastis (anise flavored liquor)
pinch of salt
premium vanilla ice cream
whipped cream (optional)

Preparation: 1. In two non-reactive bowls toss the apple and fig slices separately with lemon juice and reserve. 2. In a large non-stick sauté pan melt the butter and brown sugar until just bubbling. 3. Add the apples and sauté for 15 minutes or until just al dente. 4. Add the figs, sour cherry syrup and the Pastis. Carefully flambé the Pastis until the alcohol has burned away.

Presentation: Put 6 scoops of vanilla ice cream in 6 parfait glasses. Add a large spoonful of the apple and fig mixture, another scoop of ice cream and top them off with a final spoonful of the apples and figs. Add whipped cream on top as you wish.

Richard L. Wottrich

Spring Potato Egg Salad

The ubiquitous potato salad of 4th of July picnics and myriad church dinners casts a pall over the genre, broken only by the occasional German potato salad interloper. Bacon intrudes everywhere. It is a pity as potatoes can carry almost any seasoning and in salads they deserve more attention. This spring version carries a tart and light taste suited well with fresh baked bread, white wine and cool afternoon lunches.

2 Russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and diced to ½-inch cubes
3 hardboiled eggs, shelled and sliced
2 leeks, white portions only, cleaned and chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
1 sweet red pepper, diced
4 small Gherkin dill pickles, chopped
½ cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
3 tablespoons plain or vanilla yogurt, as you like
2 tablespoons brown or Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon prepared mayonnaise
1 teaspoon apple vinegar
½ teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper to your taste
chives, chopped, as garnish

Preparation: 1. Boil the cubed potatoes in salted water until just cooked – still firm. 2. Add all of the ingredients in a large bowl and toss lightly. Taste and season to your preference. (The salad can be prepared one day ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate.)

Presentation: Serve on a bed of Bibb lettuce. Sprinkle chopped chives on top and add a fresh squeeze of lemon juice.

Richard Wottrich

Vegas Wedding Soup
Serves 6-8

This quick recipe called Vegas Wedding Soup was given to us by good friend Foote and I prepared it for Sharon’s 62nd birthday party this very evening.

It is generally agreed that Italian wedding soup (originally known as Minestra Maritata or Pignato Grasso) has nothing to do with wedding ceremonies. The maritata (marriage) is instead between vegetables, and depending upon the region, sometimes pork (meatballs) and vegetables, in a soup. This is somewhat similar to the Italian term soffritto, which is the foundation to creating the succeeding layers of flavor in a risotto: onion and sometimes garlic sautéed in either butter or olive oil. Minestra Maritata is thought to be based upon ancient Roman soup traditions.

Soup has long been credited for nourishing the infirm and keeping hungry bellies full. The first modern public restaurants [18th century Paris, after The French Revolution (1789-1799) when the nobility were guillotined, their chefs were out of work] were places where soup was served to restore (from the French verb "restaurer") the patron's health.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion peeled and chopped
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried Italian seasonings
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon salt or to taste
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 quarts chicken stock or as needed
18 or more frozen Italian meatballs
1 large package of frozen mixed vegetables
1 cup dried pasta – small shells or as you wish
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 bag arugala, spinach or chopped kale as you prefer
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ cup grated parmesan or Romano cheese

Preparation: 1. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large stockpot. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until softened; about 3 minutes. 2. Stir in the Italian seasonings, fennel seeds, salt, red pepper flakes and ground pepper and sauté for 30 seconds. 3. Pour in the broth and bring to a quick boil. 4. Add the meatballs, vegetables, pasta and vinegar to the stockpot and simmer until the pasta is done; about 10 minutes. 5. Stir in the greens. 6. Add the grated cheese to the soup, or serve on the side, or both. Serve with crisp bread.

Richard Wottrich

Swedish Meat Balls
Serves 6-8

According to Mathistorisk Uppslagsbok by Jan-Ojvind Swahn, the Swedish word for meatball (k”ttbulle) first appeared in (Swedish) print in Cajsa Warg's 1754 cookbook. Swahn points out that the meat balls could not have been a common food, at least not for common people, until the meat grinder made the preparation simple. Swedish meat balls, smaller in size that those of Italy or Germany, are traditionally served with cream gravy and lingonberry preserves.

Sharon’s mom made a version of this Swedish meat balls recipe for years, albeit her delicious meatballs were very, very small. Sharon and I started this tradition up again for Christmas Eve 2006. The precise size of the meat ball is of course up to you, but as you should know, Scandinavians do not call attention to themselves.

Meatballs
2 eggs ½ cup mashed potatoes
2 cups fine dry bread crumbs
3 tablespoons minced onions
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¾ teaspoon allspice
¾ teaspoon grated nutmeg
¼ ground cloves
¼ teaspoon powdered ginger
1 pound ground round beef
½ pound lean ground pork
3 tablespoons butter or more

Sauce
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Dash of hot red pepper sauce
1 cup beef stock
1 cup of cream, half-and-half, or sour cream as you wish

Preparation: 1. Beat one of the eggs in a large bowl. Add the mashed potatoes, ½ cup of the bread crumbs, the onions, and all the seasonings; combine well. 2. Place the meats in a food processor bowl and pulse a few times until the meat looks smooth. 3. Transfer the meat to the mixing bowl and mix well with the egg, potatoes and seasonings mixture. 4. Shape your meatballs to no more than 1 inch in diameter. 5. In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg and pour into a pie pan. 6. Pour the remaining bread crumbs into another pie pan. 6. Roll the balls first in the egg, then lightly in the bread crumbs. 7. In a 10-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium heat; add the meat balls in a single layer and brown them on all sides, about 8 to 10 minutes a batch, turning them with tongs. Drain on paper towels while preparing the sauce. To the drippings in the skillet, add the flour and seasonings. Heat and serve until bubbles appear, then add the stock and cream, half-and-half or sour cream. Whisk until smooth – the sauce will be a bit thin (unless you use sour cream). Return to the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens.

Serve with Swedish pancakes and lingonberry preserves. A small glass of Aquavit couldn’t hurt…

Richard Wottrich

Shallots, Red & Green Grapes, Aged Goat Cheese & Tarragon
Serves 8

England’s Jamie Oliver is a breath of fresh air in cooking today, with the Cooking Channel so resplendent in fifty-something-chefs. He is a young man with a creative touch, as evidenced in this terrific salad from his cookbook “Jamie’s Kitchen” (Hyperion, NYC). The fresh tarragon is a truly inspiration idea for salad! If you cannot find fresh tarragon, don’t make the salad. I added a couple of touches (endive, sugar, lemon juice) to highlight the exception flavor notes.

2 large banana shallots, or six small ones, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup of good vinegar (I used champagne raspberry vinegar)
4 cups of fresh tarragon leaves
2 endive heads, cut crosswise in one inch sections
1 large bunch of seedless red grapes, halved
1 large bunch of seedless green grapes, halved
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
7 ounces of good aged goat’s cheese or hard salted ricotta

Preparation: 1. Soak the shallots for one half hour in vinegar water; which will make them very crisp. 2. Separate the endive sections and soak them for one half hour in vinegar water; which will reduce the bitter taste. 3. Toss the grape halves with the lemon juice, one tablespoon of vinegar and one tablespoon of sugar; marinating for one half hour. 4. Assemble the salad in a large bowl; draining the shallots, endive and grapes, and tossing them with the tarragon leaves, and vinegar and olive oil to taste. 5. Using a potato peeler, shave the goat’s cheese into the salad. 6. Add sea salt and ground pepper to taste.

Presentation: Drain any excess dressing. Compose the salad and serve immediately.

Richard Wottrich

Country French Gruyère Soufflé with Crème Fraîche and Caviar
Amuse Bouche
Serves 8

Besides Julia Childs, my other favorite life-changing chef is Jacque Pépin. In 2003 Jacque finally published his autobiography entitled “The Apprentice” (Houghton Mifflin Company, NYC). It is a charming story of a little boy whose family owned a simple French working-class restaurant, where Jacque started cooking at age ten.

Jacque’s and now my favorite recipe in the book is “Mama’s Cheese Soufflé.” It is a simple French cheese soufflé, without all the fancy separation of the yolks and whipped whites and it is delicious. For purposes of this Amuse-bouche, I have given the full soufflé recipe here. Take what you need for your dinner party and reserve the balance to cook for a family dinner the next day. I do this because you never quite get the same result when you severely scale down a recipe. From there I took this fabulous base and added Crème Fraîche and Caviar, gilding the lily to be sure, but then we only go around once. This recipe may appear to be time consuming, but trust me, it is simplicity itself.

Cheese Soufflé
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter; plus extra to butter the gratin dishes
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups cold whole milk
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
5 extra large eggs
2 ½ cups grated Gruyére cheese; about 6 ounces
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
Garnish
Crème Fraîche
½ ounce Caviar of your choice

Preparation: (For purposes of this Amuse Bouche you will need eight small gratin or soufflé dishes each holding one ounce, or two tablespoons of the soufflé batter.) 1. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Place a small oven proof pan in the oven with about ½-inch of warm water in it. 2. In one bowl crack the eggs and whip with a hand whisk until smooth. Set aside. 3. In another bowl grate the Gruyére cheese. Set aside. 4. Take your small gratins and either butter them or spray them with Pam. Set aside. 5. In a sauce pan melt the butter with the flour and stir briskly until smooth. Cook for 10 seconds and add the cold milk in one stroke, and mix it with a whisk. Keep stirring until the mixture thickens and comes to a strong boil; about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the salt and pepper. Allow to cool for 10 minutes. 6. Pour the white sauce in a large bowl and add the eggs, Gruyére cheese and minced chives. Whisk until smooth. 7. Spoon the mixture into each gratin dish; about two tablespoons per dish, reserving the balance to cook the next day. 8. Place the gratins carefully in the water bath in the oven and cook for about 10 minutes or until the soufflé has puffed up and browned slightly.

Presentation: Carefully remove the gratins and let cool for about 5 minutes. Spoon a dollop of Crème Fraîche on top of each gratin. With a stainless steel or mother-of-pearl spoon top each gratin with another dollop of caviar. Serve immediately.

Richard Wottrich

Birnensuppe (Pear Soup)
Serves 2

Cold fruit soups are classic recipes from Germany and Scandinavia. In Germany they even add fruit syrups to their beer! This is a simple recipe that if prepared with care delivers beautiful flavor.

2 tablespoons raisins
1 tablespoon dry sherry
2 pears, cored, pared and sliced
1 ½ cups water
1 inch-long cinnamon stick
1 dash crushed aniseed
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
½ teaspoon lemon juice

Preparation: 1. In small bowl combine raisins and sherry; set aside. 2. In 1-quart saucepan combine pears, water, cinnamon stick, and aniseed; bring to a boil and cook until pears are very soft, about 15 minutes. 3. Remove cinnamon stick and let mixture cool. 4. Transfer to blender container and process until smooth; pour into bowl or container and stir in raisin mixture, sugar, and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled.

Richard Wottrich