10/25/2015
10/15/2015
Pumpkins Nutritional Bombs
http://www.gazettextra.com/20151014/on_nutrition_pumpkins_packed_with_nutrients
10/13/2015
Superstar Chef Enrique Olvera Will Change the Way You Think About Mexican Food
http://www.vogue.com/13276858/chef-enrique-olvera-cosme-mexican-restaurant/
9/25/2015
GRAS Additives in Food
Why the FDA is clueless about some of the additives in our food. http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/14/399591292/why-the-fda-is-clueless-about-some-of-the-additives-in-our-food
8/04/2015
Potato Pancake & Smoked-Trout Salad
Serves 4
Smoked-Trout is an art form. Correctly done
it is light and savory at the same time. Here in Georgia, I buy my Smoked-Trout
at the Marietta Farmers Market every Saturday from Diana Fitzgerald, Diana’s
Specialties, 678-429-1409. Diana’s farmed Georgia Mountains Smoked-Trout is
delicate yet firm – subtle yet intense – the perfect balance – www.dianasspecialties.com
This Smoked-Trout Salad served on a
potato pancake is an entrée or a Sunday Brunch centerpiece. The Smoke-Trout mixture
can be prepared a day ahead, but the potato pancake should be prepared to
order, hot and crunchy. The side salad is as you wish – I urge you to include
fresh herbs.
2 large russet potatoes
salt
and freshly ground black pepper
7 tablespoons olive oil (1 for
the salad)
1 ounce butter
½ pound flaked Smoked-Trout 1 ½ tablespoons crème fraîche
pinch of sweet or smoked
paprika
2
½ tablespoons of mayonnaise or
yogurt as you wish
½
teaspoon of Pastis (anise
flavored liquor)
2 tablespoons of chopped fresh
chives
2 tablespoons of chopped fresh
parsley
1 small fennel head, peeled and
halved
several
fresh basil leaves
2 cups arugula
½
lemon
Preparation: 1. Peel and grate
the potatoes on a box grater’s large holes over a bowl. Season with salt and
pepper. 2. In a medium non-stick fry pan
and add a quarter of the oil and a small chuck of butter. When hot add a
quarter of the grated potatoes in the shape of a flat pancake. Press down with
a spatula to make a thin pancake. Fry until golden and crisp on both sides –
about 2-3 minutes per side. Transfer the
pancakes to a paper-towel-lined plate and season to taste with salt and
pepper. 3. Add the crème fraîche, Pastis and
mayonnaise/yogurt to a medium bowl. Gently fold in the flaked Smoked-Trout,
paprika and chives. [If you want a note of heat, add a scant teaspoon of fresh horseradish
to the Smoked-Trout Salad.] 4. Thinly
shave the fennel crosswise into crescents. In a salad bowl toss together the
fennel, arugula, basil leaves and parsley. Season with salt, lemon juice and 1
tablespoon of olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Presentation: Plate a potato
pancake and top with Smoke-Trout Salad. Top the Smoked-Trout Salad with a small
dollop of crème fraîche. Serve the rockets alongside.
7/12/2015
8/19/2014
Pan-seared Sesame-crusted Blue Fin Tuna
There is nothing more delicious and unctuous than seared rare Blue Fin Tuna with a tangy crust of sesame seeds and spices. Blue Fin is expensive to be sure, but believe it or not Costco carries this delicacy from time to time at a reasonable price. As there is no waste, you can net four entrée servings (two tuna steaks) for in the range of $5.00 to $7.00 a serving – with no waste.
One key tool is a heavy cast iron fry pan. If you don’t have one, get one – or at least use a very heavy skillet.
4 tuna steaks (+6 oz. per person), Blue Fin, Ahi tuna or Maguro (sashimi); at least 1.5 to 2 inches thick
½ cup black sesame seeds (optional)
½ cup white sesame seeds
1 tablespoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
pinch of black mustard seeds
pinch of curry
pinch of ground cumin
pinch of ground ginger
any other spice that you enjoy
2 tablespoons unflavored oil (peanut or canola)
4 tablespoons corn starch or white flour
2 large eggs, scrambled
2 cups Panko crumbs
Wasabi mayonnaise:
2 tablespoons wasabi powder
2 tablespoons water
½ cup mayonnaise
Anago sauce:
6 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons brown sugar (or caramelized sugar syrup or molasses) dash of rice wine vinegar
Preparation:
Wasabi mayonnaise: Mix the wasabi powder with water until it forms a uniform paste. Mix with the mayonnaise. It tastes better if you let it sit in the refrigerator for an hour or so before serving. Add any fresh herb as you like – for example fresh Tarragon is great.
Anago sauce: Combine ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to boil. Let boil for a minute or so and reduce to simmer until slightly thickened. Let cool (it will thicken some more, so don’t boil it down too much).
Line up three large dinner plates (that have a somewhat raised lip) on your kitchen counter. In the first sprinkle the corn starch uniformly across the plate. Scramble the eggs briefly and pour them into the second plate. In the third plate pour the Panko crumbs and add the salt, pepper, mustard seeds, curry, cumin, ginger and any other ground spice that you enjoy. Briefly sear the white sesame seeds
in a pan until just brown – 45 seconds. The black sesame seeds are optional to your taste. Take a fork and mix the spices and sesame seeds into the Panko crumbs.
Put the oil in one large cast iron fry pan. If you have nothing larger than 8-9-inches, use two heavy pans so you can cook both steaks at the same time. Any very heavy-bottomed stainless steel fry pan will work as well. Bring both pans to high heat.
Working quickly, unwrap your tuna steaks and dry them carefully with a paper towel. Place the first steak in the corn starch and make sure it is coated evenly top and bottom and on all edges. This coating is what will make the sesame spice mixture adhere to the tuna. Carefully pick up the coated tuna and place it in the scrambled egg mixture, quickly coating the entire steak. Then place the steak on top of the Panko crumbs and flip to coat the entire steak. Turn the steak on its edges to cover all nooks and crannies. Pick up crumbs and sprinkle until you see nothing but the crumb mixture.
Immediately place the steak in the hot fry pan – be careful of splattering hot oil – the steaks will sizzle. Place the other steak in the same pan or another pan - they should not be touching. Using two flat spatulas or flat tongs, sear at high heat for roughly 90-seconds a side and 30-seconds on each edge – no longer! Try not to disturb or scrap away the coating. The sesame crumb coatings will take on a golden caramel color. Do not overcook. When you have each steak entirely seared with a golden color and a great spice smell, place them on a cutting board.
Slice the tuna steaks with a very sharp knife at uniform thickness (1/2-inch or less) against the grain and display on a plate with sauces as you like. A small mixed green salad and vinaigrette is a great side, with an acidic white wine.
Richard L. Wottrich
Email - richard.wottrich@gmail.com
Blogger - http://coolcook.blogspot.com /
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/pages/CoolCooksShare/147332775326835?ref=hl
6/03/2014
Wild Rice, Barley & Ferro
![]() |
| Grain measurers depicted in their guild seat - Ostia - Harbor City of Ancient Rome |
If you have not invested
in a rice cooker yet, perhaps it is time. They work. They make preparation of rice,
grasses and grains easy. Today’s fuzzy-logic rice cookers have computer chips
that make proper adjustments to cooking time and temperature. Set it, forget
it.
Wild rice is a grass seed
with a nutty taste. Ferro (spelt) is wheat grain that has a complex, nutty
taste with undertones of oats and barley. Barley is a cereal grain with a rich
nutlike flavor and an appealing chewy, pasta-like consistency. The three in
combination are delicious and offer a triple-threat of nutrition, fiber and antioxidants.
1 cup wild rice
1 cup barley
1 cup ferro (spelt)
2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 cups water
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon curry
1 teaspoon salt
ground pepper to taste
chopped fresh herbs as you wish
Preparation:
1.
Mix
the wild rice, barley and ferro in a bowl. Fill with cold water and gently
swish the water until it becomes cloudy. Drain and repeat three times until the
water becomes clear.
2.
Put
the drained wild rice, barley and ferro in the rice cooker with the stock,
water and salt. Set the cooker at its “brown rice” setting. It will take
roughly 30-45 minutes to cook.
3.
Scoop
the mixture into a large bowl and using a spatula to turn the grains over while
adding the vinegar. Add the curry, chopped herbs, and salt and pepper to your
taste.
Presentation:
At
this point the grains can be served in several ways; (1) as a hot side dish
with any entrée, or, (2) served cold in a constructed salad, or, (3) as a soup
- put one cup in a soup bowl, pour hot stock on top and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano,
and you have a delicious soup. Toasted pine nuts are an excellent addition, as
are chopped scallions. The grains keep for up to a week in the refrigerator.
1/07/2014
Vacuum Packed Precooked Prince Edwards Island Cultivated Mussels
As a dedicated
cook I prepare most everything from scratch. When it comes to mussels I usually
do not prepare them at home, as I just do not enjoy the picking, steaming
process unless we happen to be in a coastal town where they are local and
pristine.
So be prepared for
a pleasant surprise – Costco sells vacuum packed precooked Prince Edwards
Island cultivated mussels sealed with butter, garlic and parsley. Boil the
pouch in water for 4 minutes and serve. I poured them on leftover Spaghetti
alla Carbonara and they were fantastic! I would only add that you check for
pieces of broken shells before serving – other than that, I have now added
mussels to our home menu options.
This is a Canadian
product sold by Sogelco International Ltd., based in Montréal, Québec. The
package claims that the product is never frozen and that the mussels are vacuum
packed first, then cooked and pasteurized in the plastic bag. The mussels are rope
cultured and grown in Prince Edwards Island waters. The parent company is Chinese, but
until proven otherwise I take all of this at face value. The cost is $8.99 for
a two one-pound bags.
1/02/2014
Pan Roasted Cod, Pears, Red Onions & Caramelized Fennel
Serves 4
Fennel is one of my
favorite vegetables, with its dill-like foliage, celery-like bulb and licorice
flavor. Fennel originated in the Mediterranean and it appears in Greek mythology,
when Prometheus set a fennel stalk ablaze to steal fire from the gods. Thomas Jefferson
valued fennel above all vegetables. This dish by Gail Monaghan couples fennel
with the virtues of roasted cod and the sublime sweetness of pear to make a
remarkably subtle dish.
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 Cod filets, skins removed (3 to 4 ounces per serving)
3 large fennel bulbs
4 red onions
1 head garlic, separated into cloves
3 lemons, two for slicing and one for juice
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon whole fennel seeds
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 firm pears
¼ cup fish stock
½ teaspoon fennel pollen (optional)
½ cup chopped fennel fronds, parsley and chives
Preparation:
1.
In
a small bowl whisk the olive oil, salt and pepper. Rub or brush the mixture on the
Cod filets. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook.
2.
Preheat
the oven to 450-degrees.
3.
Remove
the fronds and stalks from the fennel bulbs and quarter. Put into a large cast
iron pan and add the red onions, cut into 8 wedges each, the garlic cloves, 2 lemons
sliced very thinly and seeds removed, two teaspoons of coriander seeds, 1 tablespoon
of fennel seeds, and ½ cup of olive oil. Toss the vegetables to coat with the
oil. (Use two cast iron skillets if you need the room). Roast in the oven for
25 minutes.
4.
Peel
and core the pears and cut into four wedges each. In a bowl salt and pepper the
pears, adding ¼ cup of fish stock (substitute water or vegetable stock). Squeeze
juice on from one lemon. Toss to coat. Add pears to the cast iron pan(s) after
25 minutes and continue to roast until the vegetables are deeply caramelized –
about 20-30 minutes more. Remove from the oven and cover with aluminum foil.
5.
Put
the Cod filets on a baking sheet in the oven for 10 to 20 minutes depending
upon the thickness. Reheat the vegetables if necessary.
6.
Plate
the vegetables center plate. Put a Cod filet on top. Sprinkle fennel pollen on
the fish and vegetables. Garnish with the fennel fronds, parsley and chives
mixture.
3/16/2013
Carrots & Red Grapes in Vodka Sauce
Serves 4
My dear mom used to make
this dish for Thanksgiving and I believe it originated with her mom, Emma
Wottrich Withers, at their home outside of Sewell, Chile, back in the 1950s. It is a
surprisingly sophisticated take on carrots, best done with garden fresh carrots
and just picked grapes. While the carrots may be prepared ahead of time, only
add the grapes at the very last and serve immediately
2 pounds carrots, cut into thick diagonal slices
4 cups of seedless red grapes
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon of brown sugar
½ tablespoon corn starch
1 tablespoon of vodka
1 sprig of tarragon leaves, rough chopped (optional)
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Preparation:
1.
Sauté
the carrots in the butter and brown sugar for two minutes.
2.
Add
the corn starch dissolved in the vodka and continue cooking until the carrots
are just done but still firm. (At this point you can reserve the carrots and
refrigerate until ready to serve.)
3.
Add
firm red grapes and cook until just warmed through.
4.
Add
the tarragon, salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.
Variations:
Prepare with Pastis (anise-flavored
liqueur and apéritif from France) or Aquavit (Scandinavian sprit imbued with caraway
or dill) for taste variations. Try introducing the spirits alone without the
corn starch and flambé the dish just ahead of serving.
3/15/2013
Black Sea Bass with Blood Oranges, Star Fruit, Olives, Basil, and Roasted Fennel Seeds
Serves 4
Preparation time – 30 minutes
Adapted
from Chef Missy Robbins, executive chef at A Voce in Manhattan, this beautiful melding
of citrus, cured black olives and roasted and crushed fennel seeds is
inspired. I have cooked this with fresh
Cod and Black Sea Bass; both work as would any firm white-fleshed fish. The umami
of crisp fish skin adds to the dish, so it works best with a skin-on filet.
¾ cup oil-cured, pitted Kalamata olives, roughly chopped
juice and zest from ½ large orange
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
pinch red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil,
plus more to finish
4 blood oranges or Cara Cara, peeled and pith removed
2 Star Fruit, sliced thinly
pinch kosher salt, plus more to taste
4 4-ounce to 6-ounce sea bass filets, as you wish
2 sprigs basil, leaves picked and roughly torn
Preparation:
1. In a small bowl combine the
olives, orange juice, orange zest, toasted fennel, red pepper flakes and 1
tablespoon of olive oil. Gently toss and reserve.
2. Slice off the oranges’ tops and bottoms,
then cut away the rind. Working over a bowl, use a paring knife to separate the
fruit into wedges, letting them fall into the bowl as you work. Squeeze a couple
to add juice to the bowl. Cut the Star Fruit in thin star-shaped slices into
the same bowl. Season with a pinch of salt and 1 teaspoon of oil. Toss gently.
3. Set a large sauté pan over high
heat. Turn on your broiler. Season the fish with kosher salt. When the pan is
hot, swirl in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Lay the fish in the pan skin-side
down. Cook until the edged are golden and crisp; 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Transfer the pan to the broiler and finish the fish until
cooked through; 2 to 3 minutes more depending upon the thickness of the filets.
5. Arrange the blood orange wedges in a small circle on each
of four plates. Place the Star Fruit on top in a circle. Drizzle with a touch
of olive oil. Place the hot fish filet, skin-side down, centered on top. Spoon
the black olives over the fish and garnish with torn basil leaves. Grind black
pepper on top generously.
I served this with white rice cooked
with orange zest and tossed with a bit of butter, chopped parsley and a splash
of red wine winger. Served with a Mondavi Fumé Blanc, this is a bright dish to
be reckoned with.
Over the past 50 years over 90% of
the biomass of the oceans has disappeared. In 2013 it is expected that farmed fish will
surpass wild harvested fish for the first time. Pesticides, antibiotics,
mercury and PCBs are all issues with either choice. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch is a good way to make seafood buying choices. You
can download it as an app for your smart phone.
3/03/2013
Bacon Cheeseburger Meatloaf
Serves 4-6
Paula
Deen is the world-class Southern comfort food Diva. We all know that. But
recently she has been taking on a new look, slimming down recipes and herself after
being diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes. Paula’s sons, Jamie and Bobby Deen, are also
motoring down the ‘sane’ eating road. But here’s the thing – their recipes are
good, really good! So this is my riff on an insanely delicious meatloaf guaranteed
to please the most finicky child.
1 pound ground sirloin (or ground buffalo or dark turkey
meat)
10 slices uncured, nitrate-free bacon,
cooked and crumbled
8 ounces of reduced-fat sharp Cheddar cheese, grated
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup bread crumbs, toasted
¼ cup
Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
¼ teaspoon
salt
¼ teaspoon
ground black pepper
3 slices of rye bread
½ cup
tomato sauce
2 tablespoons brown mustard
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 medium onion, sliced and sautéed
1 teaspoon olive oil
Preparation:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. In a large bowl combine the first
8 ingredients, mixing well.
3. In a small bowl combine the tomato
sauce, mustard, brown sugar and thyme. Add half the mixture to the meatloaf,
reserving the remaining sauce.
4. Put a layer of rye bread on the
bottom of a 9X5X3-inch loaf pan to absorb the juices. Press the meatloaf into
the pan. Alternatively place the bread on a baking sheet and free-form the loaf
on top of the bread.
5. Bake for 40 minutes.
6. While the meatloaf is baking, sauté
the sliced onions in a teaspoon of olive oil until well browned and crisp,
about 10-12 minutes.
7. At 40 minutes, spread the balance
of the sauce evenly over the top of the meatloaf. Layer the onions on top and pepper
generously. Bake another 10-15 minutes or until done.
8. Let the meatloaf ‘rest’ for 15
minutes and then cut and serve. This pairs well with Salt-Roasted Potatoes - http://coolcook.blogspot.com/2013/02/perfect-salt-baked-potatoes-with.html
2/03/2013
Perfect Salt-Baked Potatoes with Roasted Garlic and Rosemary Butter

There is nothing
quite as satisfying as a perfectly roasted potato. The flesh is both creamy and
fluffy and the skin is crisp and crunchy, perfect with butter, salt and pepper.
Since most of the nutrients are in the skin, it is important to get it right.
This particular method is adapted from America’s Test Kitchen.
4 perfect large fresh russet
potatoes
½ pound coarse salt
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ stick unsalted butter
1 head of garlic
several
sprigs of fresh rosemary.
salt
and freshly ground pepper
Preparation:
1.
Preheat your oven to 450 degrees. 2.
Wash and scrub the russets and dry. 3.
Put a half-inch of coarse salt in the bottom of 13” by 9” baking dish large
enough to hold all four russets without touching. Place the springs of rosemary
and the head of garlic in with the potatoes. Tightly cover the dish with
aluminum foil and bake for one hour and fifteen minutes. 4. Uncover the potatoes and remove the
garlic, squeeze the cloves into a sauce pan with the butter and melt. 5. Brush the potatoes with olive oil and
return to the oven at 500 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the skin is crisp. 6. Remove the potatoes and knock off the salt
clumped on their bottoms. 7. Cut open
the potatoes and dress with the garlic butter, salt and pepper to your taste.
Enjoy!
11/07/2012
Five Loaves Cafe, Charleston, SC
November 2, 2012, Charleston, SC
Lowcountry Gem
We had been on a windy ride to Ft. Sumter on a sunny day - docked at the Liberty Terminals - and were thirsty and hungry On a tip from a lovely local couple we trekked almost two miles to a college neighborhood corner diner, Five Loaves Cafe, 43 Cannon Street (They also have a location in nearby Mt. Pleasant).
Lowcountry Gem
We had been on a windy ride to Ft. Sumter on a sunny day - docked at the Liberty Terminals - and were thirsty and hungry On a tip from a lovely local couple we trekked almost two miles to a college neighborhood corner diner, Five Loaves Cafe, 43 Cannon Street (They also have a location in nearby Mt. Pleasant).
Their son is the chef there, so trepidation abounded. Born and raised in Charleston, Joe Fischbein (and wife Rachel) and partner Casey Glowacki have created an oxymoron - a gourmet soup and sandwich joint. It works.
The Smoked Salmon Salad was elegant and simple. The All Natural Chicken Salad Club was enhanced by apple wood smoked bacon - seemingly a ubiquitous ingredient in Charleston. The Peppercorn & Coriander Hormone Free Rare Roast Beef sandwich is not something you will find at the corner deli.
The Five Loaves wine list (in a diner?) is thoughtful and reasonable. FORIS PINOT GRIS, Rogue Valley, Oregon, is not a wine I expected to find in lowcountry and the terrific AMITY PINOT NOIR, Willamette Valley, Oregon, selection is absent from many a fine restaurant.
There are several overly-hyped and overdone restaurants in Charleston that could learn a thing or two from Five Loaves. Five Loaves is at its core a mirror-miracle performed by Jesus in Matthew 14:12-21.
Bolivian Cuisine?
The New York Times today focused on high cuisine in Bolivia - built by the owner of Noma in Copenhagen, Claus Meyer!!
Go to: High Ambition and Visions of Andean Haute Cuisine
Go to: High Ambition and Visions of Andean Haute Cuisine
9/29/2012
Goosefoot - Chicago
Lincoln Square wonder in Chicago,
Goosefoot is the vision of Chef Chris Nugent.
French correctness with emphasis on local small artisan farm products.
This is what fine dining should be.
Richard Wottrich
6/26/2012
Tzatziki Inspired by Ina Garten
![]() |
| Taskim Square, Istanbul, Turkey (PHOTO:RLW) |
Tzatziki or tzadziki (Greek:
τζατζίκι [dzaˈdzici] or [dʒaˈdʒici]; Turkish: cacık [dʒaˈdʒɯk]; /zæˈdziːkiː/
Albanian: xaxiq; Persian: ماست و خیار) is a Greek and Turkish meze or
appetizer, also used as a sauce for souvlaki and gyros. In both Greece and
Turkey we have had this dish served to us – always cold - as an accompaniment.
This is a knockout served with rotisserie-roasted boneless leg of lamb.
This version originates with the
Barefoot Contessa - Ina Garten’s “Parties” cookbook. Her recipe calls for
straining plain yogurt to make it thicker. I recommend finding a good Greek
market that has homemade yogurt. It will be very thick and then you can skip
this step. Chobani works as well. Use seedless cucumbers and a mandolin and shred
them first into a strainer – then they will be ready at the end to throw into
the sauce.
1 pound (1 pint) Greek yogurt (whole milk
or low fat)
1 seedless cucumber, unpeeled and seeded
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup
sour cream
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar or white
wine vinegar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
juice (1 lemon)
1 tablespoon good olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons
minced garlic
1 ½ teaspoons
minced fresh dill
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
Preparations:
Put the Greek
yogurt in a bowl. Squeeze as much liquid from the cucumber as you can and add
the cucumber to the yogurt. Mix in the sour cream, vinegar, lemon juice, olive
oil, garlic, dill, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly with a whisk
and a strong arm. You can serve it immediately, but it is better to put the tzatziki
in the refrigerator for a few hours for the flavors to blend. I like it chilled
a as counterpoint to roasted lamb.
6/19/2012
When French Women Cook
![]() |
| Bistro Seafood on the Champs-Élysées (PHOTO:RLW) |
The famous French cook Madeleine Kamman wrote the most charming memoir published in 1976 (Ten Speed Press) about her gastronomic childhood in France entitled "When French Women Cook." It is a series of remembrances of significant women in Madeline's life who happen to express the essence of the French method of cooking in each of the eight main culinary regions of France they lived in. It is an exceptional journey through what cooking once was - and what is should be about in spirit today.
Richard Wottrich, richard.wottrich@gmail.com
6/12/2012
Grill It - Roast It
![]() |
| Jetta in the herb garden waiting for meat |
I have been
grilling meat all my life, which is to say that I slap the meat on the grill
and cook it until done. There are nuances to this process to be sure, but that’s
really all there is. The problem with this approach is that you typically end
up with a charred exterior and a dry interior unless you hit just the right
combination of grill heat and time on the grill. The image is of a man before a
grill, with a water squirt bottle in his hand, waiting to put out flare-ups. Experience
counts, but the odds aren't great.
Roasting on
the other hand is a more forgiving method. Whether you are roasting a seven
pound capon for 90 minutes, or slow cooking pork shoulder for three hours, the
process allows some margin for error. Usually you sear the meat briefly before
roasting, so the exterior has a passing reference to its grilled cousins.
Recently a
Costco label on a package of St. Louis dry rubbed spicy ribs caused me to
combine the two. I know – what a come down – taking cooking lessons from a
computer-generated Big Box label. But what did I have to lose - $10?
The label
called for grilling the ribs for 8-10 minutes a side, and then roasting them
over indirect heat for another hour and a half. Simple enough. So instead of
trying to second guess these instructions with my 20 years of cooking experience,
I just did it. I directly grilled the ribs and then onto a rack in a
roasting pan they went over indirect 500-degree heat. Unbelievable! The ribs were fantastic!
The short
grill time seared the juices inside and developed just enough ‘char’ or ‘umami’
to satisfy the taste buds. The roasting produced moist succulent meat that stayed
on the bones with a slight tenacity to satisfy our carnivorous urge to rip them
apart.
Next I tried
chicken breasts on the bone, skin on, as an acid test. This is a grilling
oxymoron, as we want crisp crinkly skin, but moist succulent meat. On a grill
you usually get one or the other. I seared the chicken breasts for five minutes
a side on a very hot open grill. Then I put the breasts, meat
side up, in a heavy cast iron pan and roasted them in the covered grill at the same temperature over
indirect heat for another 20 minutes. Nirvana! Browned flavorful crispy chicken
skin and the moistest chicken breast you could ever want.
One last
tip. I put in a potted herb garden right next to my grill every year – 38 pots
this year – but that’s me. All you really need is rosemary, basil and parsley - and maybe oregano if you know what's good for you. When grilling I throw several rosemary branches onto the grill and cover it. In
a few moments they ignite into an aromatic smoke that perfumes whatever meat
you are cooking – it’s heaven. In the fall I cut the dead rosemary branches off
and stuff them in a terra cotta pot and leave them until the next summer. The
dead branches achieve the exact same result on the grill.
So next time
– grill it – roast it.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)










