This delicious variation on mashed potatoes was adapted from "Artichoke to Za'atar", Modern Middle Eastern Food, by Greg Malouf and Lucy Malouf, University of California Press, 2008 edition. Of course the French ideal is that illusionary land of butter and potatoes suspended in time in equal portions - 50/50. But here in the real world where actions have consequences, we search for more reasonable alternatives.
Feta cheese and Greek yogurt have distinctive flavors and do not blow out either the budget or your diet. We served this with a simple roasted chicken, a platter of roasted vegetables, and a medium dry Riesling white wine; with gravy made in the roasting pan with the same wine.
Mashed Potatoes
3 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 medium yam, white flesh, peeled and cubed
1/4 cup olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk, whole or 2% as you like
1 cup Greek-style yogurt
1/2 cup crumbled Feta cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh chives
salt and pepper to taste
Put the peeled and cubed potatoes and yam into a large pot of salted water. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until the potatoes are just cooked.
As they simmer, put the olive oil, butter, milk and Greek-style yogurt into a sauce pan and blend together. Whisk in the chopped chives. Keep warm.
When the potatoes are cooked, drain and then put them back in the pot to dry on low heat for less than a minute. Put the potatoes in a large bowl and pour over the sauce pan mixture. Mash with hand masher or hand mixer. Adjust the consistency with either more milk or yogurt depending upon whether it is too thick or too thin. Adjust the seasoning to your taste.
Crumble on the Feta cheese and mix well. Serve immediately.
Gravy
Gravy is the thing! What are mashed potatoes without it?
When I roast a chicken I fill the cavity with whatever fresh herbs and onion greens I happen to have - scallion greens, fennel fronds, rosemary, lavender, or as you wish. Then I surround the chicken with all the vegetable trimmings; carrot tops, potato skins, celery tops, onion skins and so on. Added to this are lemon, orange and/or lime rinds as may be left over from other preparations. Throw in a few peppercorns, Allspice berries and Cloves and you're good to go.
After roasting put the chicken on the cutting board to rest for 10-15 minutes. Tip the roasting pan and carefully drain the excess fat into a can or other safe receptacle. Place the pan on a couple of burners on the stove and deglaze with a cup of the wine. Take a can of chicken stock and swirl in two tablespoons of corn starch and pour into the hot roasting pan. Scrap the bottom of the pan and swirl the various herbs, fruit and vegetables around in the liquid until it starts to boil and thicken. Take a large bowl and put a strainer over it. Carefully pour the hot gravy into the strainer, discarding all other ingredients. Salt and pepper the gravy to your taste - it will be very aromatic at this point. If you like you can add a little cream or milk. Serve hot.
Richard Wottrich
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